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Routes in West Side- Backbone Ridge

Type: Boulder
FA: Jason Huston
Page Views: 8,861 total, 66/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

In many ways THE line on the backbone. Start out in the middle of the block on a good sidepull. Work straight up past hard holds and an almost ghostlike crimp up high to the horizontal. Go up through a niche at the top. A very tall, proud line. #14 JJ's old topo.

Location

Backbone

Protection

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Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V8
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V8
10 years after the FA, a flash of Sandstone Violence by Tyler Thurmes. Nice work! Jan 28, 2016
madisonchoss  
V8
Here are a couple videos featuring this problem:

vimeo.com/60232915

vimeo.com/108294311 Jan 23, 2015
Ian CB
 
Ian CB  
 
This is one of the best 8's Wisconsin, and a solid one at that in my opinion. Props to Huston for the FA of this beauty. Oct 14, 2014
Brian Runnells  
  V8
False alarm. The hold is still there and the problem is still very doable. Jun 7, 2013
Hemberger Hemberger
Madison, Wisconsin
Hemberger Hemberger   Madison, Wisconsin
I have done nothing of the sort. Too busy mountain biking - breaking trees when I hit them, instead. And breaking my body... Jun 4, 2013
SteveSchultz  
 
Hahaha! He probably gave the hold to Katie too, didn't he?? Jun 4, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V8
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V8
Hey now Mr. Schultz, I'm pretty sure Skyler broke that hold on Fat Pants. Jun 3, 2013
SteveSchultz  
 
You're probably right Fat Pants. Jun 3, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V8
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V8
Hemberger was probably out there and busted it off. Jun 3, 2013
Brian Runnells  
  V8
Heard that the left crimp you move to from the initial pinches might be gone. Haven't seen it myself nor do I remember what else was there to use, but it seems like the problem would be much harder without that hold. It apparently still goes however... Jun 3, 2013
Langlois
NYC
Langlois   NYC
When I figure out how to rotate the video I'll edit some stripes in. It's a full time job making Dobbe look that good Dec 4, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
Imagine if you were sporting some vertical stripes... Talk about slender and sexy. Dec 3, 2009
Dobbe
 
Dobbe  
 
I think the side view is slimming. Thanks for making me look my best Ryan. Dec 3, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
I love how you can hear Remo getting increasingly closer with each cheer he makes and move up Dobbe makes.

P.S. Someone should start making a laptop that is on its side so i dont have to keep manually spinning. In fact i may invent a laptop that has a handy button I can press that will just spin the screen for me. Genius. I will make millions. Dec 3, 2009
Langlois
NYC
Langlois   NYC
youtube.com/watch?v=gwdKe1V…
Video:smellen Dec 3, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  V8
Remo   Madison, WI
  V8
Yeah Dobbe! The guy had a great day! Nov 30, 2009
Dobbe
 
Dobbe  
 
Super pumped to final get this today! It was long over due. I have been trying this with out any regularity for two seasons. Such a great problem. Nov 29, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
Well Done Dobbe! Sounds like it was a great day. Nov 29, 2009
Langlois
NYC
Langlois   NYC
Dobbe sent today! Also he repeated battle of the bulge, highly excecuted and strong men. Remo made a great repeat of SV on his first go. Good day Nov 29, 2009
NorMN  
Nice job Travis, only two tries! Impressive. Wish I could have ticked it that day too. Didn't want to dilute your glory though! May 5, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  V8
Remo   Madison, WI
  V8
Yeah Trav! May 4, 2009
VNESS  
Travis Melin sent the bejesus out of this route today......it was breathe-taking May 3, 2009
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  V8
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  V8
YES! Good beta chris. That ankle was not sprained in vain! May 3, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V8
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V8
Nice work Travis!!! May 3, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  V8
Remo   Madison, WI
  V8
Yeah I could see the heel being harder for sure, but Nic is right the conditions for this thing are key to sending(mid summer=not good). I have sent a few V8's out west and this feels just as hard or harder. People say that Wisconsin is sandbagged, but because of the awesome feedback we all give I think the Dodge is solid for the grades. Mar 27, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V8
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V8
Foot chip is still there and fully functional. IMHO the heel hook method is harder though. I did the "just jump" method today, only I went up to break with right hand instead of left and it felt pretty reasonable. The jump method is perhaps more committing but the move felt easier. An awesome problem and I simply love it every time I pad it, chalk up, take a deep breath, and step up. Mar 26, 2009
SteveSchultz  
 
Sounds like, from talking to RV and Kelsen, that the chip is still there and still usable. Even if that thing breaks off all the way it's not going to change the grade. Jason did the FA with the left heel and the grade is firm that way.

Am I a notorious hold breaker??? I had no idea. Break one hand hold that doesn't change anything and my name goes to hell....

Also, sounded like basically everything was dry up there. That foot would have broken eventually I'm sure. In fact there are a couple of holds on that problem that could still break. Let's not freak out people. Mar 18, 2009
Damn it Kelsen! I was so close! To be fair I think that footchip was weak to begin with. I'm surprised Steve Schultz didn't break it first!
BUT still, see Dobbe's post on the main page, do NOT climb when it's wet!!! Mar 17, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V8
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V8
I was kinda hoping someone who had sent and was motivated would try to flip flop on the beta to see which way was harder. Oh well.

EDIT: Oh yeah, on second thought, any of you foot chippers can still try heel hooking and let us know. I'm talking to you, Narc. Mar 17, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  V8
Remo   Madison, WI
  V8
Rumor is that Kelsen broke the key right foot for the final throw to the break. Damn Kelsen, now we all have to do it the heal hook way! Oh well, it is sandstone. Mar 17, 2009
Brian Runnells  
  V8
To answer a question above, in my opinion the crux is moving off the right hand double pinch hold to the sharp left hand crimp. The last move is not that hard once you commit to it. Nov 30, 2008
Langlois
NYC
Langlois   NYC
Nice work remo Nov 27, 2008
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V8
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V8
Congrats Remo and Brian! Though I would stick with the original heel-hook beta myself... Nov 27, 2008
Brian Runnells  
  V8
I highly recommend using the beta that Nic uses in the above linked video. The small right foot is key for the last move. Nov 27, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
  V8
Remo   Madison, WI
  V8
Today was another great day for friction addicts, the temps made the rock feel excellent. Dobbe came inches from finishing this thing off, next time- so stoked! Nov 23, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
Yo man congrats remo!!! long time coming for both problems and im psyched for ya. word up Nov 18, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
  V8
Remo   Madison, WI
  V8
So stoked on this problem, one of the best in the park! Finally sent today, the conditions were perfect. Nov 18, 2008
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V8
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V8
Yup. 4 days of effort spanning 9 months. Had no idea it was possibly the second ascent, just looked like a sweet line that needed some attention. Aug 25, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
Hey steve! what up bro. little fyi for everyone Chris that frequents this site has also sent S.V. but besides that I think they could be the only 2.
weeerrrddd,
sweaty Aug 24, 2008
SteveSchultz  
 
oh, and the crux is definitely going to the break. you should have no problem come fall. Aug 24, 2008
SteveSchultz  
 
Hey guys,

Just some input from myself. yes the problem is perfect. it's hands down the classic line at dodge.

Nicros/Five ten, is this nic? if so, we met back at MORE. As far as i know the problem has only seen 1 ascent so far, jason's. at least none others that I've heard of. I worked it for a matter of days and figured out what I thought the best beta was and got to the last move but couldnt put it together before i got smoked by a block jason accidentally pulled off. i sort of lost interest for a while after that. it's the only send i've heard of though. that said, i've been out of the loop for the most part this year but am planning on coming back this fall to finish it up. i'm guessing that this bloc will get a bunch of sends this fall.

let me know when you are back in town and we'll head up there.

steve Aug 24, 2008
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V8
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V8
"And what is the crux of Sandstone Violence?"

The last move to the horzontal break (after establishing on the right crimp, the next move). Once you get the sharp left hand, you have time, as you know it's the best hold on the problem. But the last right crimp is very temperature and humidity dependent. 50F and no humidity is about perfect. 80F is bad. I agree it's perfect. By the way, why do you assume few ascents? Just wondering, I really have no idea. Aug 23, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
  V8
Remo   Madison, WI
  V8
I would just like to say that I love this problem. The first time I ever bouldered at the Dodge this caught my attention. It wouldn't matter if it was V12, I would still throw myself at it. Everytime I get on it I come closer and closer to unlocking the moves. Everything has to be just right. Anyway, great send by Jason, and a great Wisconsin classic. Aug 6, 2008
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  V8
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
  V8
any beta for someone working the problem jason? Right now I am going with the "just pull harder" theory Jun 9, 2007
SteveSchultz  
 
we're guessing it'll go in the v8/9 range Nov 6, 2006