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All Locations > Wisconsin > Governor Dodge… > Boat Landing Boulders

Grounded For Life

V5 YDS 6C Font

Routes in Boat Landing Boulders

	5 more minutes V2-3 5+
	Big Jim V1+ 5
	Big Jim Mantle V0 4
	Capitalization Separates Us From the Animals V3 6A
	Corporal Punishment V7-8 7B
	Grounded For Life V5 6C
	House Arrest V2- 5+
	Lost Zane V3 6A
	Muramasa V6 7A
	Out Past Curfew V4 6B
	Tree Slab V-easy 3
	big jim center V2 5+
	big jim left V1 5
	time out V1+ 5

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Type:	Boulder, 10 ft
FA:	John Freaney
Page Views:	3,961 total · 32/month
Shared By:	sweatpants on Aug 2, 2008
Admins:	Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route

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Description

Crux is pulling up to the face and topping it out. Also odd at first to have the rock behind you for the traverse in. Not bad when you get used to it but kinda "inspect her gadget" at hp40 ish. but not as intrusive. cool features and good movement. Starts on obvious jug and goes to the right using the various lip holds and also the crack inside the roof for about 5 feet or so and then up the face

Location

It is right behind "Out Past Curfew" just walk around to the right.

Protection

pad or two

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Photos

Katie on a very cold and snowy morning.

Katie on a very cold and snowy morning.

Fun problem.

Looking straight at it...

Looking straight at it...

Katie. Again. Cold.

Katie. Again. Cold.

Re-sending a classic, GFL, March 2010.

Re-sending a classic, GFL, March 2010.

Vinny on flash.

Vinny on flash.

GFL, great problem. March 2010.

GFL, great problem. March 2010.

Matt on GFL. March 2010.

Matt on GFL. March 2010.

The sloper was so chalky that day! Someone needs to learn restraint.

The sloper was so chalky that day! Someone nee…

Katie, a couple weeks back on a cold sunday morning.

Katie, a couple weeks back on a cold sunday mor…

word

Steep.

me going into the seam

me going into the seam

danny going for the crimp. its farther than it looks.

danny going for the crimp. its farther than it…

Messing around with some beta for feet...

Messing around with some beta for feet...

starts on obvious kinda sharp jug towrds left of photo.

starts on obvious kinda sharp jug towrds left o…

17 Comments

sweatpants
Broomfield, CO

sweatpants Broomfield, CO

I have pics that I'll put up later. cool prob though for sure. Aug 2, 2008

Remo
Madison, WI

V5

Remo Madison, WI

V5

Really fun problem, goes well with an Irish Stout. Aug 6, 2008

Brian Runnells

V5

Brian Runnells

V5

the last sloper before the horn jug was like a faucet today. mysteriously oozing water out of nowhere...next time! Aug 9, 2008

sweatpants
Broomfield, CO

sweatpants Broomfield, CO

nice dude! glad you dug it. Did u get on out past curfew around the corner? Its prolly the best climbs in the park for sure. Oct 26, 2008

SSchultz

SSchultz

Haven't gotten on curfew yet. maybe later this week or weekend. It was an early morning session and it was COLD!! Perfect conditions, really. Oct 27, 2008

Brooks-C
Portland, OR

V5

Brooks-C Portland, OR

V5

awesome problem. did some video footage. here it is if you are interested. youtube.com/watch?v=JY6LkMc… i think i did the problem slightly different then the pictures i saw on here. i went up on the slopper instead of the bulb. looking forward to coming back to dodge soon to climb some more. May 27, 2009

Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA

Paul Dieterle Pasadena, CA

SO CLOSE TO FLASHING IT. AGHHH!!!! Sep 19, 2009

Hemberger Hemberger
Madison, Wisconsin

V5-

Hemberger Hemberger Madison, Wisconsin

V5-

Loved this thing - Definitely one of my new favorites at the Dodge. Apr 6, 2010

sweatpants
Broomfield, CO

sweatpants Broomfield, CO

nice. glad you dug it! Apr 10, 2010

george reynolds
Wisconsin

george reynolds Wisconsin

Does it matter which crimp is used to pull the lip on this guy, I used the one to left of the one that people are using in pictures. The one I used is basically straight up from the first sloper that your heel is on when you hit the big horn. Aug 17, 2010

Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin

V5

Chris treggE Madison, Beersconsin

V5

I've done it both ways, seemed pretty similar in difficulty. Pretty sure Sweaty went straight up from the horn on the FA. Aug 17, 2010

sweatpants
Broomfield, CO

sweatpants Broomfield, CO

i went straight up from the last slopers. There's a picture that shows the hold i used, if that helps. Aug 18, 2010

george reynolds
Wisconsin

george reynolds Wisconsin

Thats what I thought, it felt like the harder part was squeezing the seam and slopers before the jug. Didn't really feel like hitting the crimp was hard other than how far away it looks when your hanging there. Aug 19, 2010

Tradiban

V5

Tradiban

V5

There's good pinkie jams in the slots underneath, allowed me to make the left hand bumps more smoothly. Sep 22, 2011

John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin

John W. Knoernschild Wisconsin

I second the pinky jams. They hurt a bit after a few tries, but they really help. Oct 11, 2011

Tradiban

V5

Tradiban

V5

Low gravity day on this one, Vinny flashed off the couch. He took it all the way to the horn but I did the reach for the good incut in the middle to top out. I think going to the horn could be considered an extension and the true V5. Nov 21, 2011

Matt Haig
Bishop, California

Matt Haig Bishop, California

youtube.com/watch?v=1rTKunW…

Kind of wish I'd read the comments and looked at the photos prior to getting on this. It remains a project for a friend so the next time we're out there I plan on sending it as the First Ascensionist did. I can only imagine it's just as satisfying Aug 21, 2013

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