Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: John Freaney
Page Views: 4,025 total · 32/month
Shared By: sweatpants on Aug 2, 2008
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Description

Crux is pulling up to the face and topping it out. Also odd at first to have the rock behind you for the traverse in. Not bad when you get used to it but kinda "inspect her gadget" at hp40 ish. but not as intrusive. cool features and good movement. Starts on obvious jug and goes to the right using the various lip holds and also the crack inside the roof for about 5 feet or so and then up the face

Location

It is right behind "Out Past Curfew" just walk around to the right.

Protection

pad or two

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Photos

Katie on a very cold and snowy morning.
Katie on a very cold and snowy morning.
 2
Fun problem.
Fun problem.
 1
Looking straight at it...
Looking straight at it...
 1
Katie. Again. Cold.
Katie. Again. Cold.
 1
Re-sending a classic, GFL, March 2010.
Re-sending a classic, GFL, March 2010.
 1
Vinny on flash.
Vinny on flash.
 0
GFL, great problem. March 2010.
GFL, great problem. March 2010.
 0
Matt on GFL. March 2010.
Matt on GFL. March 2010.
 0
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 0
The sloper was so chalky that day! Someone needs to learn restraint.
The sloper was so chalky that day! Someone nee…
 0
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 0
Katie, a couple weeks back on a cold sunday morning.
Katie, a couple weeks back on a cold sunday mor…
 0

17 Comments

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sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V5
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V5
I have pics that I'll put up later. cool prob though for sure. Aug 2, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
  V5
Remo   Madison, WI
  V5
Really fun problem, goes well with an Irish Stout. Aug 6, 2008
Brian Runnells
  V5
Brian Runnells  
  V5
the last sloper before the horn jug was like a faucet today. mysteriously oozing water out of nowhere...next time! Aug 9, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V5
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V5
nice dude! glad you dug it. Did u get on out past curfew around the corner? Its prolly the best climbs in the park for sure. Oct 26, 2008
SSchultz
 
SSchultz  
 
Haven't gotten on curfew yet. maybe later this week or weekend. It was an early morning session and it was COLD!! Perfect conditions, really. Oct 27, 2008
Brooks-C
Portland, OR
  V5
Brooks-C   Portland, OR
  V5
awesome problem. did some video footage. here it is if you are interested. youtube.com/watch?v=JY6LkMc… i think i did the problem slightly different then the pictures i saw on here. i went up on the slopper instead of the bulb. looking forward to coming back to dodge soon to climb some more. May 27, 2009
A B
Boulder, CO
 
A B   Boulder, CO
 
SO CLOSE TO FLASHING IT. AGHHH!!!! Sep 19, 2009
Hemberger Hemberger
Madison, Wisconsin
  V5-
Hemberger Hemberger   Madison, Wisconsin
  V5-
Loved this thing - Definitely one of my new favorites at the Dodge. Apr 6, 2010
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V5
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V5
nice. glad you dug it! Apr 10, 2010
george reynolds
Wisconsin
george reynolds   Wisconsin
Does it matter which crimp is used to pull the lip on this guy, I used the one to left of the one that people are using in pictures. The one I used is basically straight up from the first sloper that your heel is on when you hit the big horn. Aug 17, 2010
chris tregge
Beersconsin
  V5
chris tregge   Beersconsin  
  V5
I've done it both ways, seemed pretty similar in difficulty. Pretty sure Sweaty went straight up from the horn on the FA. Aug 17, 2010
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V5
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V5
i went straight up from the last slopers. There's a picture that shows the hold i used, if that helps. Aug 18, 2010
george reynolds
Wisconsin
george reynolds   Wisconsin
Thats what I thought, it felt like the harder part was squeezing the seam and slopers before the jug. Didn't really feel like hitting the crimp was hard other than how far away it looks when your hanging there. Aug 19, 2010
Tradiban
  V5
Tradiban  
  V5
There's good pinkie jams in the slots underneath, allowed me to make the left hand bumps more smoothly. Sep 22, 2011
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
I second the pinky jams. They hurt a bit after a few tries, but they really help. Oct 11, 2011
Tradiban
  V5
Tradiban  
  V5
Low gravity day on this one, Vinny flashed off the couch. He took it all the way to the horn but I did the reach for the good incut in the middle to top out. I think going to the horn could be considered an extension and the true V5. Nov 21, 2011
Matt Haig
Bishop, California
Matt Haig   Bishop, California
youtube.com/watch?v=1rTKunW…

Kind of wish I'd read the comments and looked at the photos prior to getting on this. It remains a project for a friend so the next time we're out there I plan on sending it as the First Ascensionist did. I can only imagine it's just as satisfying Aug 21, 2013