Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: David Groth- mid 80’s
Page Views: 8,723 total · 57/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, chris tregge, James Schroeder

You & This Route

102 Opinions

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One of the most recognizable classics in the park, this line was first cleaned and bouldered by Dave Groth in the mid eighties. Early repeats by John Sherman and Eric Zschiesche, during their Stone Crusade tour in the early 90's.

This tall, steep, beautiful problem hosts an awesome series of side pull and gaston pockets. The movement flows well with a wide selection of footholds and positive handholds while steadily growing harder until the lip which sports a rather thoughtful mantle. It aint over until you're standing up.


It is high and the landing slopes. Several pads are nice.
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
This is an excellent problem. One of my new Wisconsin favorites. Jun 9, 2007
FYI to Jeremy S. thanks for the work on this boulder. I believe i am the first accentionist in recent years, september 2006. Doesn't matter to me too much. I try to remain behind the scene. Other routes in that area i've done also, they are unnamed but good quality. The names placed on the boulder, the routes are good and no need to change them! Let us all enjoy the little gems scattered across our state.
Brian Pederson Dec 11, 2007
J Beta
New Hampshire
J Beta   New Hampshire  
I think Paul Jones may have done this problem as early as 1996 or 7. I remember him telling me about it. Dec 11, 2007
David A Groth
David A Groth   Lacrosse
I cleaned this boulder in 1989 and did the godfather the same day. I remember doing 5 or 6 problems on this boulder. I told Eric Z and John Sherman about it and they sent it on there stone crusade tour.

Dave Groth Mar 20, 2008
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Thanx Dave for chiming in...

Well, throughout the history of bouldering in this country I would hate to have to guess at the number of "re-first-ascents" that have taken place... And I am sure I am as guilty as anyone. However, I had no misgivings about the Godfather. When posting this area, I called the prominent line the "Godfather" in tribute to Dave Groth's efforts throughout the heartland. It is a nickname he endures I am sure, but never the less it was an attempt to honor those who taught me, and I knew he had fired the thing a long time ago, cause he told me so and how to find it. I also stated in the general overview of Box Canyon that these things were done back in the eighties...

And for that matter, between Dave, Eric Z., and Sherman, every hold on this boulder was probably at one time scrubbed clean and chalked. Lichen grows fast back there in Wisconsin, in case you haven't been around long enough to see this fact first hand. Aug 19, 2008
chris tregge
chris tregge   Beersconsin  
Good history lesson and lesson in FA's Dave and JJ.

Sweaty- change it to 4 stars and keep the unanimous vote going!! Come on dude!

On another note, I looked at this boulder and problem in late summer '07 (was alone with one pad) and chickened out after seeing the height & landing. In April '08 I returned after going to JT and geting on White Rasatafarian. Suddenly it didn't look so tall and the landing looked downright fluffy... So hop on it, great line, great boulder. Spring can't come soon enough... Jan 18, 2009
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
You can't tell me what to do!... Jan 23, 2009
Thanks Dave for straightening out the facts! somehow i new you or eric or john had been on this boulder as soon as i looked at it. Im glad i rediscovered much of the bouldering that has found its way on this site, im glad someone has documented all the routes i've enjoyed and talked about, but didn't take the time to note. I hope you are still crankn after all these years, may we cross paths again! Jan 18, 2010
Matt Haig
Bishop, California
Matt Haig   Bishop, California

REALLY enjoyed this line! Aug 21, 2013
Andy Summers
Madison, WI
Andy Summers   Madison, WI
Stellar problem. Don't skip this one if you're at Dodge! Mar 17, 2018