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Routes in Qual Wall

A Red Recollection S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Block Party TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Crack left of Leftwing T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Espionage S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fahrenheit 23 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Great White Top Rope TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leftwing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time Coming V3-4 6A+
Mean and Green S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
More Choss Than Moss TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nordwand, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Now or Never S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nut Job T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Purple Jeep TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quail Stew T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Secret Agent Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Slab Me Harder S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slab Right S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sobriety Test S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Top Rope Hero TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tramadol S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unknown / "Meaner than Green" S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unlisted Number S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Elevation: 1,111 ft
GPS: 43.04, -90.105 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 32,734 total · 236/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on May 24, 2007
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE
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A small sport climbing area with 11 fully bolted and one partially bolted routes on a small cliff band. The sandstone is generally solid with crimpers and slopers predominating. A topo prepared by Jason Huston is available below. At this time there is no further bolting of routes allowed.


Getting There

Once in the State Park, drive towards Twin Valley Lake. Turn left towards the Group camps, and park near the horse barn. On weekdays if it's not busy with horse trailers, you can park in the grass lot. On weekends or if there are horse trailers in the grass lot, please park on the road (far enough off to not be in traffic). See comment from Rhoads below. Walk across the road and up into the woods on the horse trail. After a few minutes look up and right for a trail towards the cliff band. You will see the routes starting 100 yards up to the right. See google satellite view for details.


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Classic Climbing Routes at Qual Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
I first walked past this conspicuous wall in 1996 and was sort of blown away by it. I called it the Qual Wall, as in “quality”. I had recently read Zen and the art of motorcycle Maintenance for the first time, but of course, the rock quality was excellent for the park. Seth Dyer and I started establishing the best looking lines in the fall of ‘96. Our intention then was to have one area in the park with decent climbing and easy access. Over the last few decades the Qual Wall has become a sport climbing refuge in southern Wisconsin and a valuable resource.

At some point during 1997 Ralph Schmidt and Saul Sepsen(sp?) added some of the routes on the warmup wall and a few others. Jun 19, 2006
Madison, WI
NiClips   Madison, WI
I was just at Gov. Dogde this past weekend for the first time (for climbing). That layback route "A Red Recollection" is pretty sweet; we noticed it just as we were leaving. I had only enough time to get past the first few moves, before we had to leave. I'm def. going back next week to send it though. The rock seemed to be in pretty good shape as well, although it is pretty soft and crumbly in other spots. Jul 31, 2006
george reynolds
george reynolds   Wisconsin
What kind of condition are the bolts in currently, have any of the bolts broken or pulled out since they were initially placed. I would love to get on some of these routes but im a little concerned of the age of the hardware. Jan 24, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Last I checked, the bolts looked good, in general. Of course, it's not a bad idea to take a look at them when you're climbing, especially in the Governor's soft sandstone. Jan 24, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
I have been on most of the lines on the Qual Wall in the past 15 months or so and everything I clipped seemed solid. Jan 24, 2009
I thought the "Warm Up" routes were not for the new leader. They have distinct cruxs and some slight run outs between bolts. Jun 26, 2009
He guys I've been alerted to an parking issue at Qual Wall. Here is what the park staff said regarding the grassy parking area across from the barn.

"This parking area is the spot that has been designated for the day use horse unloading area for 15+ years. During the week, there is little problem with the lot filling up with horse trailers. However, on weekends, the lot does usually fill up with horse trailers. As this is their only area to park, they have no other options.
Cars on the other hand can park along the road shoulder so long as they are off the surface far enough to prevent obstruction to moving traffic. There is also the group camp shower building parking area (up the road from the horse day use parking) that could be used by climbers."

The reason for this alert is that a friend of mine had an issue with some horse trailer people that we adamant that he couldn't park there.
Since this is their only area to park we don't need to make an issue of it, thus, park on the road during weekends or if it is busy. Jun 28, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Thank Rhoads for putting some steel biners at the top of some of the climbs for TR or lowering. THESE ARE NOT BOOTY BINERS! Please do not TR off the chains on the rest of the climbs. Mar 8, 2010
Platteville, Wi
ChrisFrayer   Platteville, Wi
Do these routes get shade (i.e. how is the summer climbing)? If so, any idea of morning shade / afternoon shade etc. Thanks for any info. May 30, 2010
Summer climbing here is hot and sweaty. Qual Wall is south facing and tree cover is not over-abundant. May 31, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
What Nick said. Hot and sweaty. Best to get there close to sunrise and you'll have a couple-hour nice window of tolerable temps and less direct sun. Late in the day is ok too but not as good. May 31, 2010
Platteville, Wi
ChrisFrayer   Platteville, Wi
Big thanks to the people adding the fixed steel biners on the anchors. Definitely makes it a safer crag. Oct 17, 2010
Here is the Qual Wall topo. It is the same topo that was posted before and I think still available on Brian's site. Just wanted to make sure the link stayed fresh and the topo available for whoever wants it. Dec 2, 2011
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
This is a fun little crag and is probably the closest sport climbing to Chicago. I was pleasantly surprised by the rock quality, especially in the Red Recollection area, as I was expecting a chosspile based on some of the descriptions. About as good (if not better) than Necedah. Sep 9, 2017

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