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Routes in Qual Wall

A Red Recollection S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Block Party TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Crack left of Leftwing T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Espionage S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fahrenheit 23 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Great White Top Rope TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leftwing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time Coming V3-4 6A+
More Choss Than Moss TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nordwand, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Now or Never S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nut Job T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pocket Warmup S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Purple Jeep TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quail Stew T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Schizophrenia S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Secret Agent Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Top Rope Hero TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tramadol S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unknown / "Meaner than Green" S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Unlisted Number S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warm Up 1 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Warm Up 2 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ralph Schmidt
Page Views: 1,110 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Jun 26, 2009
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

From Huston's topo:
Boulder through the first three bolts (crux), shake out, and then continue up the wall above avoiding the chimney on your left. The grade is unconfirmed. Shares the final two bolts and chains with the previous route.

Location

Left route on slab to the right of "Secret Agent Man".

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI
Mr. Mix   Sauk City, WI
Jason did the left hand line in February and felt that it was more difficult than its neighbor Secret Agent Man. It would be quite an accomplishment to send this variation in summer with less than ideal friction. I have to wonder if those climbing this in summer and calling it 12b and 12c are not wandering onto the right side variation. Dec 25, 2010
I have seen the right variation go but not the left variation. Left variation = razor crimps on less than ideal rock quality.
...Don't touch that crack... Nov 3, 2010
Nah, I think this route just sucks. Nov 2, 2010
There appears to be a sequence both left (no bottom shared holds) AND right (shares bottom holds w/right 12a route) of the bottom 4 bolts = 2 sequence options...
This may account for the lack of grade clarity? Nov 2, 2010
feels like 12c to me. did it in the humidity which sucked, but it was techy and reachy moves. Aug 22, 2010
Trying to pull through the first three bolts felt impossible. No evidence of broken holds either. Damn!

Run-out at the point it joins the other route. Mar 23, 2010
Sorry, Huston does call it 12c, I changed the route info. Jun 28, 2009
Dobbe  
I think I was told it was 13 as well. Aaron tried it on day and it looked hard to the point that I didn't try. Jun 27, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
I thought I remembered a comment or post calling it 13 as well somewhere on here. Maybe Schlick's comment under the main Qual Wall page? Anyone want to check it out later this summer when it cools down and we can come up with a consensus? This and a couple of the others that I need to get on too. Jun 26, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Huston's topo calls this 12c? Jun 26, 2009
Huston's topo here: documents.scribd.com/docs/1… Jun 26, 2009