Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ralph Schmidt
Page Views: 2,972 total · 21/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 22, 2007
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Description

Far right bolted line on warm up wall. Kind of jacked.

Location

Warm up wall

Protection

Bolts

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Photos

Rightmost line of bolts is Warmup 1. The line just to the left climbs much better and is a bit easier.
Rightmost line of bolts is Warmup 1. The line…
 1
Michael at the anchors after leading Warm-up 1. First route in Gov. Dodge State Park, a nice climb made a bit harder with all the darn wasps.
Michael at the anchors after leading Warm-up 1.…
 0
Top of "Warm Up 1"
Top of "Warm Up 1"
 0

5 Comments

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Tradiban
 
Tradiban  
 
For clarification the "Warm ups" 1 and 2 are the two right side routes that share the first bolt. The farthest right route is a bit "jacked" hence my comment below.

To limit "jackedness" stray right after first bolt and then come back at waist level to the second bolt.

Slightly run out to the last bolt. Not for pushing your grade.

Huston calls it "Slab Right" in his topo found here:
documents.scribd.com/docs/1… Jun 26, 2009
mandyf
grand junction, co
5.10a
mandyf   grand junction, co
5.10a
a good friend of mine did this as her second 5.10a red point. i wouldn't call it jacked...it is a bit runout at the top, but on big holds. Sep 13, 2009
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.9+
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.9+
I agree with Rhoads on this thing's runout between bolts 3 & 4. Not a great route to push your grade on. Solid 5.10a leaders should feel comfortable, but the new 5.9 leader will be gripped between 3 & 4. Apr 6, 2014
Brandon Kupczyk
Elmhurst
Brandon Kupczyk   Elmhurst
How does this grade compare to that of devils lake or lets say the RRG? Dec 12, 2015
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.9
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.9
Hey Brandon. SIGNIFICANTLY easier than any 5.9 I've climbed at the lake But still not a route to push grade on like Rhodes and James said its a bit runout. The route to the left is easier and better in my opinion. Dec 14, 2015