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All Locations > Wisconsin > Governor Dodge… > Qual Wall

Slab Right [Edit]

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British


 Avg: 2.1 from 54 votes

Routes in Qual Wall

A Red Recollection S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Block Party TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Crack left of Leftwing T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Espionage S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fahrenheit 23 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Great White Top Rope TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leftwing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time Coming V3-4 6A+
More Choss Than Moss TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nordwand, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Now or Never S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nut Job T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Purple Jeep TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quail Stew T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Schizophrenia S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Secret Agent Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Slab Me Harder S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slab Right S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sobriety Test S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Top Rope Hero TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tramadol S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unknown / "Meaner than Green" S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unlisted Number S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Sport
FA: Schmitt
Page Views: 2,858 total · 22/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 22, 2007
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description [Edit]

Far right bolted line on warm up wall. Kind of jacked.

Location [Edit]

Warm up wall

Protection [Edit]

Bolts

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Photos

Rightmost line of bolts is Warmup 1. The line just to the left climbs much better and is a bit easier.
Rightmost line of bolts is Warmup 1. The line…
 1
Michael at the anchors after leading Warm-up 1. First route in Gov. Dodge State Park, a nice climb made a bit harder with all the darn wasps.
Michael at the anchors after leading Warm-up 1.…
 0
Top of "Warm Up 1"
Top of "Warm Up 1"
 0

5 Comments

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Tradiban
 
Tradiban  
 
For clarification the "Warm ups" 1 and 2 are the two right side routes that share the first bolt. The farthest right route is a bit "jacked" hence my comment below.

To limit "jackedness" stray right after first bolt and then come back at waist level to the second bolt.

Slightly run out to the last bolt. Not for pushing your grade.

Huston calls it "Slab Right" in his topo found here:
documents.scribd.com/docs/1… Jun 26, 2009
mandyf
grand junction, co
5.10a
mandyf   grand junction, co
5.10a
a good friend of mine did this as her second 5.10a red point. i wouldn't call it jacked...it is a bit runout at the top, but on big holds. Sep 13, 2009
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.9+
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.9+
I agree with Rhoads on this thing's runout between bolts 3 & 4. Not a great route to push your grade on. Solid 5.10a leaders should feel comfortable, but the new 5.9 leader will be gripped between 3 & 4. Apr 6, 2014
Brandon Kupczyk
Elmhurst
Brandon Kupczyk   Elmhurst
How does this grade compare to that of devils lake or lets say the RRG? Dec 12, 2015
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.9
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.9
Hey Brandon. SIGNIFICANTLY easier than any 5.9 I've climbed at the lake But still not a route to push grade on like Rhodes and James said its a bit runout. The route to the left is easier and better in my opinion. Dec 14, 2015

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