Type: Trad, TR
FA: JJ Schlick, S. Dyer
Page Views: 2,770 total · 20/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 22, 2007 with updates from Bobby Hebel
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Perhaps the most enjoyable climbing on the wall, Nut Job is great warm up if you are confident at the grade. Named for the plethora of wired nut placements found along the route. Follow the obvious thin crack line in the center of the wall through jugs, and a few jams out featured rock. One bolt up high.

Location

Warm up wall, Center

Protection

Wires and cams. The protection looks good, but this rock is always suspect. If there is any question about wether or not you could lead this on gear, just don't. Easily toproped from anchors on right...

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Photos

Climber Johnny Clark. First outdoor lead. Pink point courtesy of Rhoads
Climber Johnny Clark. First outdoor lead. Pink…
 1
warm up wall with Nut Job right in the middle<br>
warm up wall with Nut Job right in the middle
 0
About to enter the crux section. Fun route. Beautiful fall day, Sept. 09.
About to enter the crux section. Fun route. B…
 0
Roger Frivalt climbing.
Roger Frivalt climbing.
 0

2 Comments

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Tradiban
  5.9+
Tradiban  
  5.9+
Best route on this side off the wall. I sewed it up with one set of BD nuts. Placements were generally good but the rock is not bullet hard on this one. There is a distinct crux in the middle and that is where the pro is hardest.

Called "Nutcracker" in Huston's topo. Jun 26, 2009
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
A couple 0.75 C4's are nice to backup the anchor on this guy, it has seen better days. Have fun! Jul 8, 2016