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Routes in Qual Wall

A Red Recollection S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Block Party TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Crack left of Leftwing T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Espionage S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fahrenheit 23 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Great White Top Rope TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Leftwing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time Coming V3-4 6A+
More Choss Than Moss TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nordwand, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Now or Never S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nut Job T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pocket Warmup S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Purple Jeep TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quail Stew T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Schizophrenia S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Secret Agent Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Top Rope Hero TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tramadol S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unknown / "Meaner than Green" S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Unlisted Number S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warm Up 1 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Warm Up 2 S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer 1996
Page Views: 7,095 total, 56/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 24, 2007
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


67 Opinions

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Description

The year was 1996. BIll Clinton was president, the Macarena was sweeping the nation, the internet was a savage tool, and the U.S. sport climbing scene was still in its adolescence. After a six month road trip of some the best sport crags in the nation at the time, Seth and I came back to Wisconsin with a whole new perspective on life. A Red Recollection was the first line we established here for obvious reasons, and it is named after the Red River Gorge, which I thought had the best sport climbing I'd ever seen.

The line climbs the center of the wall up a unique "tufaesque" layback feature for 30" with awesome non technical stemming. The crux seems to come all too soon, and involves a thought provoking bulge, which is passed on the left. Continue up to your choice of low, or high anchor.

Location

Center line on the wall. Starts off of an awesome flat boulder.

Protection

Sport. Anchor over the bulge for original pitch, or continue to the second set if you wish which adds climbing, but nothing to the grade per se.
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.11a
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.11a
Great route to break into the 11s with very clean falls at the crux. A must do! Jul 6, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.11a
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.11a
Rad! So glad I saved this!

Edit to add:

Gear:
You will pass seven bolts, and the first set of anchors on your way to the upper anchor. So you'll need seven quickdraws (assuming you don't drop one), a shoulder length sling (if you're going to clip the first set of anchors for pro) and whatever you want for the upper anchor.

There were biners to lower from on the upper chains, but they are starting to get a pretty good groove in them, and the quick links that attach the chains are looking a little rusty/manky. If you are planning on doing this soon replace the quick links and the biners - $20 worth of good karma. Update the comments section if you do, otherwise I'll have to haul some stuff out there to do it with later this summer. Apr 5, 2014
Tradiban
  5.11a
Tradiban  
  5.11a
Correct Andy. To proper lead when no gear is available at all one must wear a harness and be tied to a rope and at least have a set of brassies or hooks along for the ride. Just soloing would be too easy. Mar 17, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11a
What if a route is undeniably lacking any gear whatsoever? What does it go on then, Rhoads? Pure muscle and a little bit of courage? Mar 16, 2011
Tradiban
  5.11a
Tradiban  
  5.11a
Anything can go on gear, however this crack is pretty flaring in the beginning. Mar 15, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  5.11a
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  5.11a
I think it could. Not sure I would trust the rock, although Nut Job seemed solid enough. Mar 15, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11a
I wonder if this could go on gear? I seem to remember the crack running fairly continuously until the first set of anchors. Know if it's been done? Mar 15, 2011
Happy to hear you enjoyed it Chris. Oct 1, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  5.11a
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  5.11a
Dear Mr. Flunker- although I was skeptical to begin with, I now agree that your extra 10 feet of climbing out of the pit is a pretty cool addition to this already great climb. Sep 29, 2010
True Red Recollection (AKA Red Recollection Direct), 11b (or so):
J. Flunker, September 17, 2010.
This may have been done before?...
Start down in pit (on ground) 8 feet below typical start boulder for Red Recollection. Pull some 5.10 hand jams (avoiding the boulder behind you) to reach the original start of Red Recollection. Continue up Red Recollection to the chains.
The boulder will be out of play if you hand jam. Yes, sport climbers, hand jam...
Gives you that oh so pleasant red-river-esque pump! Sep 18, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11a
This climb is SICK. Too much fun. So much fun it pumped me out. A note for topropers: Use the 2nd set of chains to reduce the wear on your rope and cut back on the swing out in case of a fall. This is a great hard lead. May 3, 2010
Tradiban
  5.11a
Tradiban  
  5.11a
I installed steel perma-biners to save wear and tear on the chains. TR away! Mar 7, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.11a
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.11a
Great laybacks, stemming, drop knees, powerful moves.....could you ask for more! Love this climb! Nov 16, 2009
Tradiban
  5.11a
Tradiban  
  5.11a
Classic climb. Seth/Jeremy, what kind of epoxy did you guys use? The left hand anchor bolt needs some, it's moving a bit. Jun 26, 2009
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
First Bolted line here, obviously not too long after a trip down to the Red propper... Jun 22, 2007