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Routes in 1. Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V2 5+
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Elevation: 1,179 ft
GPS: 43.414, -89.686 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,040 total · 115/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 25, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE
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Description

The Old Sandstone formation is an otherworldly crag that lies far to the east of the quartzite cliffs we're all used to climbing on at Devil's Lake. The rock here has round edges, embedded pebbles (of quartzite, of course), blank slabs, curved cracks, and other wonders. The cliff is about 65 feet high at its loftiest point, and it contains a number of excellent climbs.

Getting There

To access the Old Sandstone formation drive 1.25 miles east of the CCC parking lot, nearly to Highway 113. After driving this distance you will see the backside of a 35 MPH speed limit sign on the left (north) side of the road. Just before this sign there is a dirt pull-off on the right (south) side of the road that accomodates 4-5 cars. Park here.

The Rozno's Meadow/Ice Age Trail heads out into the meadow from this lot. Farther up the other side of the road toward Devils Lake the hiking trail head back into the woods.

Across the road and slightly east, find a less obvious trail cutting into the woods near the speed limit sign. Hike up the forested slope for about 15 minutes and when the slope starts to flatten you will see to your right the sandstone cliff that is the "Old Sandstone" formation.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Sandstone

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 82
Chez's Chimney
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 27
Swillbillies
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 74
Everleigh Club Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 131
Curving Crack
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 67
American Beauty Crack
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 76
Wobbly Dihedral
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 14
Out There
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 50
Alligator Wall
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 80
Mammalary Magic
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 80
Dancing Madly Backwards
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 71
Gargantua
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 26
Tarantula
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 21
Has Been
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 28
Baker Street
TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 30
Pacific Ocean Wall
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chez's Chimney
 82
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Swillbillies
 27
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Everleigh Club Crack
 74
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Curving Crack
 131
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
American Beauty Crack
 67
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Wobbly Dihedral
 76
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Out There
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R TR
Alligator Wall
 50
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Mammalary Magic
 80
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Dancing Madly Backwards
 80
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Gargantua
 71
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Tarantula
 26
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Has Been
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Baker Street
 28
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
Pacific Ocean Wall
 30
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in Old Sandstone »

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Justin Meyer
Madison, WI
Justin Meyer   Madison, WI
As of 5/14/17 there were a lot of black flies at old sandstone. They can draw blood and leave itchy welts so bring bug spray and/or long sleeves, pants and a hat just in case they are still around. They have a limited season so they should be gone by June at the latest. They aren't terrible but climbing will be more fun if you aren't being bitten. May 16, 2017
I apologize for accidentally leaving a rap anchor around the tree above American beauty last weekend I wasn't able to get back until today. Thank you to whoever removed it Nov 20, 2017
Big Macs
Madison, WI
Big Macs   Madison, WI
If anyone finds a weird bungee cord dog leash on the approach trail in the next few days I'd love to grab it from you. Also, the fact that I lost a dog leash shouldn't incriminate me in any way to the likely event that I had a dog with me that was not on a leash. I'll buy you a six pack if you find it. 3 days ago · Lost & Found

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