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Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,126 total · 9/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Climb the right side of PO wall and make a huck for the obvious jug on the corner.

Watch the swing into the tree...

Protection

TR - be sure to bring a fair amount of webbing as placements above the route are limited and generally far back from the cliff's edge.

Photos

This route I super fun! Delicate yet powerful.. Very impressive lead Rhoads. Has it been repeated? Nov 20, 2017
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.11b
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.11b
Love this route! Agree with Remo, its a blast. The roof moves reminded me of Everybody Needs Friends down in Jackson Falls. Aug 19, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
This route is a blast! Mar 30, 2011
Tradiban  
 
Thanks Rich, that means alot coming from a hardman such as yourself. As for the next leads...Shhh...you're giving the tick list away!

I would like to add that I think the face between POW and SS is a possible 5.13. Pulling the lip directly will be stiff! I will add the route on MP. Jun 8, 2009
Nice job! I dont know if it has been led or soloed.I thnik it may be a first.How about Fibula crack or new light waves for leads.I looked at them a long time ago and might be worth checking out.Just be careful.The ground is always one bad placement away.I am psyched to see the DL legacy of hard leading being continued. Jun 8, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.11b
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.11b
Mark another one off Rhoads. How many unled leads left? Jun 8, 2009
Tradiban  
 
To answer my own question, it now has at least one lead but it seems like a route that has been soloed as well. Ball Nutz and small cams were key. I started on the arete (completely avoiding Everleigh Club) and worked up into the incuts on the face, threw for a good sloper and then used the good holds on the arete to the top. Later in the day I was working the face between POW and Seven Seas and found that the upper face after the lip climbed well, so I re-led the bottom half of SS and then moved left to the middle of the face. Protected fairly well with a #0 TCU. Same grade for both versions, 5.11a R. Jun 5, 2009
Tradiban  
 
Has this ever been led? Mar 27, 2009

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