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Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Tommy Deutchler
Page Views: 158 total, 1/month
Shared By: John W. Knoernschild on Jul 11, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

This is a classic climb. A face climb with 2 variations. The 5.10a being the rightmost climb. There is a 5.8 variation on the left of the face.

Location

30 ft to the right of curving crack. Just before the bluff turns to the east.

Protection

There is not many spots to place pro on this climb.

Photos

Jack C.
Calgary, AB
 
Jack C.   Calgary, AB
 
Laughable 10d. I led this with decent micro cams and some peenuts without any trouble. I'd say the middle of the face is more like 5.8. Admittedly I didn't punch to the top, it looks like I met up with the top of the Swillbillies crack.
Anyways, I thought it was a blast and if you know me I'm not the most confident trad climber. So get on it! Aug 1, 2015
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
The oak tree at the base of "Swillbillies" has a dead limb pointing toward "Freaky Face". There is an active bee's nest inside the dead limb ... a couple of people got stung yesterday.

Doesn't seem to effect "Swillbillies." Jul 14, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9+
Definitely a well protected lead with the right gear. All the gear is there but you just can't fathom it being there from dow below! Give this route a shot. Start on left side and traverse right about halfway up and continue straight up for 5.9. For 5.10+ don't traverse right and just fire straight up along the left side. Jul 6, 2011
waxisgood
Milwaukee, WI
5.9
waxisgood   Milwaukee, WI
5.9
very good gear and a wonderful climb. Jun 11, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.9
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.9
Fun little climb, and surprisingly has good gear if you find it right. Straight up the face we figured was in the 5.9 range. Apr 12, 2010
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.10d
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.10d
The right hand side is definitely harder than 5.10a, the guidebook says 5.10d and I would have to agree.

Left side is a fun little 5.8 Oct 20, 2008
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
john ,my memory is losing it on this one ....I beleive it was 1st done by a young tommy d. Jul 6, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
FA ?? Steve seems to have a pretty good memory. What do you think Steve? Jul 3, 2008