Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Tommy Deutchler
Page Views: 213 total · 2/month
Shared By: John W. Knoernschild on Jul 11, 2007
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

This is a classic climb. A face climb with 2 variations. The 5.10a being the rightmost climb. There is a 5.8 variation on the left of the face.

Location

30 ft to the right of curving crack. Just before the bluff turns to the east.

Protection

There is not many spots to place pro on this climb.

Photos

John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10d
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.10d
FA ?? Steve seems to have a pretty good memory. What do you think Steve? Jul 3, 2008
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
john ,my memory is losing it on this one ....I beleive it was 1st done by a young tommy d. Jul 6, 2008
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.10d
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.10d
The right hand side is definitely harder than 5.10a, the guidebook says 5.10d and I would have to agree.

Left side is a fun little 5.8 Oct 20, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.9
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.9
Fun little climb, and surprisingly has good gear if you find it right. Straight up the face we figured was in the 5.9 range. Apr 12, 2010
waxisgood
Madison, WI
5.9
waxisgood   Madison, WI
5.9
very good gear and a wonderful climb. Jun 11, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.9+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.9+
Definitely a well protected lead with the right gear. All the gear is there but you just can't fathom it being there from dow below! Give this route a shot. Start on left side and traverse right about halfway up and continue straight up for 5.9. For 5.10+ don't traverse right and just fire straight up along the left side. Jul 6, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
The oak tree at the base of "Swillbillies" has a dead limb pointing toward "Freaky Face". There is an active bee's nest inside the dead limb ... a couple of people got stung yesterday.

Doesn't seem to effect "Swillbillies." Jul 14, 2013
Jack C.
Utah
 
Jack C.   Utah
 
Laughable 10d. I led this with decent micro cams and some peenuts without any trouble. I'd say the middle of the face is more like 5.8. Admittedly I didn't punch to the top, it looks like I met up with the top of the Swillbillies crack.
Anyways, I thought it was a blast and if you know me I'm not the most confident trad climber. So get on it! Aug 1, 2015