Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: First Lead: Rich Bechler and Steve Sangdahl
Page Views: 3,062 total · 16/month
Shared By: EB on Oct 16, 2003
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


77 Opinions

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Description

Wobbly dihedral is definantely one of the best 5.9 leads at DLSP. The gear is excellent and the crux is more balance than power. Climb up the clean, arching left facing dihedral 10 fett left of chez's chimney. once you reach the end of the crack you will be at the crux. A couple of exciting moves out and up lead you to easier terrain to the top. The only complaint with this climb is that the dihedral doesn't continue for another 100 feet. Gitt onn itt!

Protection

everything from # 10 hex to # 3 brass offsets on this climb. Gear starts big and progressively gets smaller as you climb
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
first lead : Rich Bechler and Steve S. Oct 22, 2003
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.9
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.9
A great first 5.9 lead at Devils Lake. The pro is good and the crux is short. May 12, 2005
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9
What a awesome route. It offers great gear all the way up. Aug 24, 2008
Tradiban
  5.8+
Tradiban  
  5.8+
Nice route. I thought it was a touch easier than 5.9.
A Met #0 Master cam protected the thin seam very well. Aug 11, 2009
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.9
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.9
Really good crux but the climbing eases significantly after which. I think the grades are pretty spot on at sandstone area. Jul 19, 2011