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Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: First Lead: Rich Bechler and Steve Sangdahl
Page Views: 2,843 total, 16/month
Shared By: EB on Oct 16, 2003
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


70 Opinions

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Description

Wobbly dihedral is definantely one of the best 5.9 leads at DLSP. The gear is excellent and the crux is more balance than power. Climb up the clean, arching left facing dihedral 10 fett left of chez's chimney. once you reach the end of the crack you will be at the crux. A couple of exciting moves out and up lead you to easier terrain to the top. The only complaint with this climb is that the dihedral doesn't continue for another 100 feet. Gitt onn itt!

Protection

everything from # 10 hex to # 3 brass offsets on this climb. Gear starts big and progressively gets smaller as you climb
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.9
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.9
Really good crux but the climbing eases significantly after which. I think the grades are pretty spot on at sandstone area. Jul 19, 2011
Tradiban
  5.8+
Tradiban  
  5.8+
Nice route. I thought it was a touch easier than 5.9.
A Met #0 Master cam protected the thin seam very well. Aug 11, 2009
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.9
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.9
What a awesome route. It offers great gear all the way up. Aug 24, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.9
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.9
A great first 5.9 lead at Devils Lake. The pro is good and the crux is short. May 12, 2005
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
first lead : Rich Bechler and Steve S. Oct 22, 2003