Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,500 total · 26/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 9, 2001
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, chris tregge, James Schroeder

You & This Route


131 Opinions

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Description

The Curving Crack is a great moderate climb that requires some tricky jamming towards the top of the route. Start out with some blocky moves and move up along the crack, curving towards the right. About half way up the route have the option of using only the crack (harder) or using a shallow dihedral to the right to stem up. The top of the climb holds the crux where you seem to hit a dead-end.

Protection

Standard Rack
Ishmail
Utah
Ishmail   Utah
The moves are a bit awkward b/c you have to go deep for good jams, but good fun and a nice lead. A few lost cams – Wise use of runners is a way to keep your gear. Sep 7, 2007
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.8
FA?? Jul 3, 2008
BryanR
Madison, WI
BryanR   Madison, WI
felt like a 5.6 on a top rope but i would imagine it a bit trickier on lead. Oct 26, 2008
Great route! 5.8 at least by leading. Using layback to pass the top crux makes the route even more enjoyable. May 24, 2009
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.8
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.8
This route is stupid. All the goddamn cams stuck in this stupid route should give you a clue that leading it although it may seem cool is not because you'll lose a cam or 12. I lost a #3 Camalot in it today. This route is stupid, dirty and not fun. Also, this route is stupid. Jul 6, 2011
chris tregge
Beersconsin
  5.8
chris tregge   Beersconsin  
  5.8
Hmmm. So what you are saying is there is a stuck #3 camalot on this route. I think I am free tomorrow afternoon... Thanks Andy!

Andy says: "This route is stupid, dirty and not fun."

Also, I agree with this. Jul 6, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.8
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.8
Chris, you can have it! I worked at it for a bit but gave up thinking that it was a good sacrifice to the climbing gods and hopefully they'll put me on a route that is more fun than this pile. Also, it's a #3 that I bootied 2 years ago so it's come full circle. Jul 7, 2011
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.8
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.8
This route does not suck Andy! Blasphemy! Jul 7, 2011
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.8
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.8
i dislike the fact this route can be climbed as a face climb...that is weak! this climb is legit, stay off the face and climb the crack! Jul 16, 2011
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
  5.8
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
  5.8
I know you could climb this on the face, but why would you want to? Those jams are really nice. Great route to teach crack climbing with. Jun 19, 2012
Tom Lausch
Madison WI
  5.8
Tom Lausch   Madison WI
  5.8
Good lead. Swallows gear all the way up. Save your larger cams for near the top. Pulling the top 5' as a layback increases the difficulty. Good climb overall. Jun 20, 2012