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Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,090 total · 26/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 9, 2001
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

The Curving Crack is a great moderate climb that requires some tricky jamming towards the top of the route. Start out with some blocky moves and move up along the crack, curving towards the right. About half way up the route have the option of using only the crack (harder) or using a shallow dihedral to the right to stem up. The top of the climb holds the crux where you seem to hit a dead-end.

Protection

Standard Rack
Tom Lausch
Madison WI
  5.8
Tom Lausch   Madison WI
  5.8
Good lead. Swallows gear all the way up. Save your larger cams for near the top. Pulling the top 5' as a layback increases the difficulty. Good climb overall. Jun 20, 2012
Josh Olson
Durango, CO
  5.8
Josh Olson   Durango, CO
  5.8
I know you could climb this on the face, but why would you want to? Those jams are really nice. Great route to teach crack climbing with. Jun 19, 2012
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  5.8
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  5.8
i dislike the fact this route can be climbed as a face climb...that is weak! this climb is legit, stay off the face and climb the crack! Jul 16, 2011
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
  5.8
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
  5.8
This route does not suck Andy! Blasphemy! Jul 7, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Chris, you can have it! I worked at it for a bit but gave up thinking that it was a good sacrifice to the climbing gods and hopefully they'll put me on a route that is more fun than this pile. Also, it's a #3 that I bootied 2 years ago so it's come full circle. Jul 7, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.8
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.8
Hmmm. So what you are saying is there is a stuck #3 camalot on this route. I think I am free tomorrow afternoon... Thanks Andy!

Andy says: "This route is stupid, dirty and not fun."

Also, I agree with this. Jul 6, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
This route is stupid. All the goddamn cams stuck in this stupid route should give you a clue that leading it although it may seem cool is not because you'll lose a cam or 12. I lost a #3 Camalot in it today. This route is stupid, dirty and not fun. Also, this route is stupid. Jul 6, 2011
Great route! 5.8 at least by leading. Using layback to pass the top crux makes the route even more enjoyable. May 24, 2009
BryanR
Madison, WI
BryanR   Madison, WI
felt like a 5.6 on a top rope but i would imagine it a bit trickier on lead. Oct 26, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.8
FA?? Jul 3, 2008
Ishmail
Utah
Ishmail   Utah
The moves are a bit awkward b/c you have to go deep for good jams, but good fun and a nice lead. A few lost cams – Wise use of runners is a way to keep your gear. Sep 7, 2007
we use to rate curving crack 5.6 Feb 26, 2002

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