Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: DLFA
Page Views: 866 total, 10/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on Nov 26, 2010
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

"Ptooey!" is the sound the rock makes as it spits you out of the deceptively easy looking corner crack. Climb up about 10 feet into the corner using good holds and a two-finger undercling. Place some small nuts, take a deep breath and then figure out the trickery to unlock the crux sequence. The small embedded pebbles on the right side wall will help. Once you reach the good horiztonal rails on either side walls, place some more gear to settle your stomach and finish up with hand jams. Mantle out on slopey but good ledges for an exciting finish.

Location

50 feet east of Pacific Ocean Wall.

Protection

Small nuts and cams.

Photos

Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Great lead and especially for an on-sight. Way fun and very well protected with little wires at crux. Nov 28, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
 
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
 
Nice work, Rhoads. For being so short it packs a pretty good punch. Mar 31, 2011
Tradiban
  5.9 PG13
Tradiban  
  5.9 PG13
Good route but tricky. It was micro nuts all the way. I palmed way out right and stemmed wide to get through the crux. Mar 30, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
 
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
 
Just trying to stay ahead of you Rhoads. We didn't get to Ten-ish Shoes, although that would have been cool. There are a lot of cool though short looking lines all the way down. But because this spot does get tons of sun it makes for a good winter destination and I'll be back to finish up some of the routes further down the line. Nov 28, 2010
Tradiban
  5.9 PG13
Tradiban  
  5.9 PG13
Damn it Andy, just when I felt I've done everything at OS you have to go ahead and post this one. Did you do Ten-ish Shoes? There are quite a few more short climbs if you keep following the cliff band. Nov 28, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
 
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
 
To give you an idea of what I mean by "Small nuts and cams:" #4 & #5 BD stoppers at the crux, #0 Camalot right after the crux and then you finally get a .75 Camalot for the top out. I thought this was one of the most fun short leads I've done at the Lake... but probably the scariest too. Nov 27, 2010