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Dirty Little Secret
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.3 from 13
votes
Routes in 1. Old Sandstone
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Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bass Tree TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Broken Foot T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Down Under TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eight Plus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Everleigh Club Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gargantua Variation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Girls Named Sue T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hippie Flip TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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One-Upper T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V2+ 5+ R |
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Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ptooey T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shin Bone TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Swillbillies T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tarantula T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Ten-ish Shoes TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Three Choices TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Uberschmidt TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wobbly Dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,051 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Rah Herrington on Apr 29, 2013 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
It looks simple but gets tricky as you move farther up, since the chimney opening becomes smaller as you near the top of the climb. There are some nice flakes and crimps on the inside face to help you move up. Be prepared to get really dirty in this one.
Location
To the right of Everleigh Club Crack & Girls Named Sue there is a large flake in the rock that hides a nice little chimney. In the "Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake" book it is directly left of an unnamed 5.9 route that moves up a dihedral (marked as #22 for the area). If you don't have this guide it is about 10ft or so to the left of Ptooey.
The start is fairly obvious. You step up into the chimney and start making your way up. It can be topped out and you can walk back down or you can rappel back down as well.
The start is fairly obvious. You step up into the chimney and start making your way up. It can be topped out and you can walk back down or you can rappel back down as well.
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