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Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,723 total, 11/month
Shared By: Kayte Knower on Aug 19, 2005
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Tarantula offers a left hand start into the same crack system as Gargantua. This route makes a great onsight proposition with nice rests and plenty of protection. The overhanging start throws the hardest moves soon off the ground, and the pumpy hand traverse that leads into the obvious crack is just as exciting. The thin crack above is as fun as it looks, but keep your shoes race-laced for the top out.

Protection

The lower crux is well protected by small wires and TCU's. Save a couple hand sized cams for the horizontal below the upper crux. Long slings at the bottom of the route and through the traverse make all the difference on the top out. The route is wonderfully protected.
Marty Combs
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Marty Combs   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Great 5.10 b lead. I found this climb to be true to its rating, which is uncharacteristic for Devil's lake (Most routes seem to be sand-bagged). The 5.10 section is very fun and overhanging, but not sustained and it protects decently. After the initial moves of 5.10, the rest is a sustained 5.8 hand crack. The 5.10 section protects nicely with a Red #1 BD Camelot and then a green .75 Camelot. Watch out for rope drag. Sep 6, 2008
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
A fun free climb, and also a very nice route to practice your clean aid on. Oct 31, 2005
EB
Winona
EB   Winona
One of the better 1o leads at the lake. Sep 2, 2005