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Routes in 1. Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
Page Views: 3,457 total · 20/month
Shared By: Maikey Lopera on Jul 19, 2004
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route

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This is the first route that you find to the left (west) of the Old Sandstone area. A nice slab with multiple pebbles embedded on it. Start by climbing straight up in the middle of the slab up to just below the biggest pebble. There are two ways to solve the crux move: one going straight up to the big pebble and the other by moving a little to the left (easier). From big pebble continue straight to the top.


PRO: No much pro for this route. Expect a spicy run out. Use a couple of small cams (0.5-1) for the lower section (a green and red alien useful). The crux is protected by a rusty bolt about half way up. There is a horizontal crack around 20 ft past bolt that eats 1-1.5 cams.
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.10a R
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.10a R
Definitely a sketchy lead. The bolt looks like it is from antiquity. On lead, it is not a bad idea to cinch a wired stopper behind the hanger of the bolt (it is easy to do so because the hanger is loose and spins). This may calm the prospective leader's mind a little... Sep 30, 2004
This was my first outdoor climb. (it's me, David Koslowski, and I won't show up on the site til tomorrow) My climbing partner who has been teaching me *made* me do this route first. What an evil bastard... He said it was to learn to trust foot holds that seem to be nonexistent (at the crux) but I think he just likes to torture me.At the crux you can go to the left, sure, though I'm not sure how it's easier, as I tried that way and failed. I tried going up the middle, which I also could not figure out for the life of me. After dogging for what seemed like forever, I finally found a way up to the *right*. There's a specific spot over by the ledge that, if you search hard enough, you can smear just enough to pull you up past the crux. After that, the climb was a lot of fun.Oh, and that bolt near the bottom looks like it was placed by Noah. May 31, 2005
The bolt should be replaced. Sep 22, 2005
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
The bolt should be yarded!!! this route has been led with out clipping the bolt. It's actually stupid to clip it because it's a piece of shit. I should know I botched the placement and have always regretted it...what was I thinking? Somebody should remove it and patch the hole, thanks...peace and fuk-nes. Sep 23, 2005
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
This has to be one of my absolute favorite routes at DL. Perfect sandstone slab climbing, with great movement. If only it went on for another 100 ft. Apr 23, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.10a R
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.10a R
If only that bolt could hold a fall... Apr 24, 2007
I gave this a shot for an onsight lead two weekends ago. Got up to the bolt, cinched a stopper behind it as the hanger looks like its made from 1/16" sheet metal, clipped it, made two moves past the bolt, got totally gripped and wound up sliding off right to finish on the top of Wobbly Dihedral. What I'm wondering is if sliding off right before clipping the bolt, placing a piece or two with long runners in the left side crack of the top of Wobbly and then continuing up the slab is an acceptable ascent. I just really don't want to contemplate the consequences of whipping onto that bolt and feel that the crack, albeit not directly on the route, falls within the "in-reach" rule of leading at the Lake. What is everyone elses take on this? Apr 24, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.10a R
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.10a R
It's been a while, but I remember cinching the bolt, and climbing up a bit to get a few brassies in a crack off to the right, though not quite on Wobbly. Then I went down to the ledge and did the route, slinging the sappling at the top as the only pro for the upper section.

So few people lead this that I don't think it matters what you do, whether you place pro on Wobbly or whatever. At least you're leading it. Apr 24, 2007
In the photo you can see the crack I'm talking about. If you split the picture into thirds top to bottom it would be right on the right hand division about three quarters of the way up. I don't think its considered Wobbly but I'm not sure. Where did you put the brassies, Jay? May 6, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.10a R
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.10a R
Ian, I think that's where I put the pieces. May 6, 2007
John W. Knoernschild
  5.10a R
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.10a R
FA?? Jul 3, 2008
  5.10a X
  5.10a X
I skipped the bolt, it's total crap. In a fix I think you could hang on it (if you put a wire around the bolt, the hanger will surly break) but it probably will not take a fall and besides, at that point in the climb it is fairly easy to bail on to "Wobbly". I ran it out to the big seam, plugged in #3 and #4 C4's and took it to the top.

Great slab moves on this thing. The big inset quartzite pebble is especially cool.

In my opinion, the "within reach" rule can be a bit too generous some times. If you're not actively using the feature to climb on, I think it's off route, especially if it's part of a different climb. Just my personal constitution I guess.

Jun 29, 2009
Alex A
Alex A  
If you would like to do a fun, harder variation 5.11b avoid using all Quartzite pebbles, will test your slab climbing skills, Feb 7, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10a R
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10a R
I took at 30 foot whip on this today. The gear is good. Though the fall you're looking at is mega. If this were on the 3rd or 4th pitch of some long ass route the run-out wouldn't have gotten to my head. This is definitely spicy. Contemplating why I like the R rated stuff. But, there is pro and in my opinion to protect from a groundfall you might as well cut right just before the crux to place a .75 to save yr ass. Aug 7, 2011
So yeah, common knowledge at the time had it that I did the first lead of this scroungy POS line in 1985 after Steve Sangdahl bolted it and ran off to Boulder before completing it. Legend had it that the second bolt he placed pulled under body weight and he ran off to find better rock and legal weed in Colorado. I climbed it after a very rainy late spring/early summer which resulted in the upper slab being covered in grit and bird shit. The conditions at the top of the route definitely provided the crux. Luckily I had the imperturbable Ken Sauls belaying and providing the worst background music imaginable, swilling Old Milwaukee's and singing Grateful Dead songs with his Camel-charred lungs at full blast. Ah memories! Jun 11, 2018

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