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Fingers In A Lightsocket
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.4 from 247
votes
Routes in Supercrack Buttress
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22 going on 23 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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24 Unknown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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24 Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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3AM Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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? T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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[Closed] Anasazi T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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A void T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Amaretto Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bad Rad Duality T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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behind choss pillar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bongo Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chasing the Dragon T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Coyne Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Creeksmythe, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fat Free T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fingers In A Lightsocket T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fledge TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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For the Clients T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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For the Masses T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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For the Shade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gorilla T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Honest Aussie T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Incredible Hand Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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International Affair T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Key Flake, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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King Sooper T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Left Affair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Legend of Creepy Hollow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Man Who Knew Too Little, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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No Name Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nuclear Waste T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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On-Slot, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Painted Pony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pigs in a Slot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pringles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Savelli Crack T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Super Babushka T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Super Chill T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super Surprised T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Super Zesty T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Supercrack Buttress | 7481 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Supercrack of the Desert (aka Luxury Liner) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Supershack V2- 5+ |
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Tiffs Thigh Gap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Too Much Cake T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Triple Jeopardy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown Deep Slot left of Keyhole Flake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Unknown Left of The Wave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown on far left side of wall T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wave, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wild Works of Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Zow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad |
| GPS: | 38.03635, -109.54551 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 18,807 total · 64/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Wellman on Mar 8, 2002 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
2026 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This short, right leaning lieback is the climb immediatly right of Coyne Crack. It starts out fingers and gets progressively smaller as you get higher. The tactic is definitely climb fast, the rests really suck. About 1/3 height is a foothold to place gear off, but doesn't really give you a good rest. Continue climbing above and place yellow aliens from strenuous liebacks before the crack pinches down to tips. You could fit in a blue alien up high, but its really strenuous to place. Just before the crux, the final moves trying to stand up to the anchor, is a really poor, wrongly sloping foothold to maybe rest or place pro on, but it feels super tenuous. The crux move involves using spaced out fingerlocks and a sloping ledge to mantel on. After just reading what I wrote, I would say its not quite as hairy as I made it sound, just remember to keep your feet really high in opposition and move fast.
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