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Elevation: 938 ft 286 m
GPS: 44.0622, -71.16582
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 135,194 total · 567/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jan 15, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

The Barber Wall is the upper left wall of Cathedral Ledge, so named for Henry Barber and his extensive collection of first free accents on this section of the cliff. Barber was involved in the freeing of every crack from Nutcracker rightwards to Lichen Delight. All of these are classics and none are light in the grade.

This wall is one the best places to practice crack climbing if you plan to get on the longer more committing crack climbs on the cliff. The skills you learn on these 60 to nearly 200 foot climbs (the cliff gets taller as you head to the right toward Retaliation) can even be well applied to walls like Cannon Cliff or even the big walls of Yosemite. Locals often meet here for after work sessions in the evening so it is possible to meet partners here for some cragging.

Though this area is known for its cracks there are a number of desperate “sport” routes and mixed (bolt/trad) climbs. In the winter, ice covers much of the cliff making for great steep ice climbing.

Getting There Suggest change

To get there, climb any route on the lower left wall. Or from the top hike south along the edge of the cliff meeting a trail that wraps around to the midway ledge splitting the Lower Left and Barber Wall. You will see nutcracker first as you hike along the ledge and the routes just keep on coming till you reach the upper half of the Prow area at Upper Refuse and the Book of Solemnity. You can also find the top of Double Vee and rap in.

39 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Barber Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 473
Upper Refuse
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 275
Black Lung
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 225
Chicken Delight
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 109
Layton's Ascent
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 134
Retaliation
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 124
Double Vee
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 247
The Book of Solemnity
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 245
Nutcracker
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 71
Nomad Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 28
Black Crack
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 35
Youth Challenge
Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 14
Webster's Unabridged
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 86
Lichen Delight
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
The Arete
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 17
Graverobber
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Upper Refuse
 473
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Black Lung
 275
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Chicken Delight
 225
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Layton's Ascent
 109
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Retaliation
 134
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Double Vee
 124
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
The Book of Solemnity
 247
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Nutcracker
 245
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Nomad Crack
 71
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Black Crack
 28
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Youth Challenge
 35
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Webster's Unabridged
 14
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Lichen Delight
 86
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
The Arete
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Graverobber
 17
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Barber Wall »

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