Elevation: 938 ft
GPS: 44.062, -71.166 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 91,907 total · 556/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

The Barber Wall is the upper left wall of Cathedral Ledge, so named for Henry Barber and his extensive collection of first free accents on this section of the cliff. Barber was involved in the freeing of every crack from Nutcracker rightwards to Lichen Delight. All of these are classics and none are light in the grade.

This wall is one the best places to practice crack climbing if you plan to get on the longer more committing crack climbs on the cliff. The skills you learn on these 60 to nearly 200 foot climbs (the cliff gets taller as you head to the right toward Retaliation) can even be well applied to walls like Cannon Cliff or even the big walls of Yosemite. Locals often meet here for after work sessions in the evening so it is possible to meet partners here for some cragging.

Though this area is known for its cracks there are a number of desperate “sport” routes and mixed (bolt/trad) climbs. In the winter, ice covers much of the cliff making for great steep ice climbing.

Getting There

To get there, climb any route on the lower left wall. Or from the top hike south along the edge of the cliff meeting a trail that wraps around to the midway ledge splitting the Lower Left and Barber Wall. You will see nutcracker first as you hike along the ledge and the routes just keep on coming till you reach the upper half of the Prow area at Upper Refuse and the Book of Solemnity. You can also find the top of Double Vee and rap in.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Barber Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 318
Upper Refuse
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 31
Final Gesture
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 194
Black Lung
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 164
Chicken Delight
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 77
Layton's Ascent
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 106
Retaliation
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 93
Double Vee
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 183
The Book of Solemnity
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 166
Nutcracker
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Book of Solemnibeast (variation…
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 49
Nomad Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Youth Challenge
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Black Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 60
Lichen Delight
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
The Arete.
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Upper Refuse
 318
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Final Gesture
 31
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Black Lung
 194
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Chicken Delight
 164
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Layton's Ascent
 77
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Retaliation
 106
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Double Vee
 93
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Book of Solemnity
 183
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Nutcracker
 166
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Book of Solemnibeast (varia…
 7
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Nomad Crack
 49
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Youth Challenge
 17
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Black Crack
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Lichen Delight
 60
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
The Arete.
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
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