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Barber Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Barber Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arete (Mid-Cliff Start), The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Bad Dogs T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Big Deal Rock Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Black Crack (mid-cliff start) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Black Lung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Book of Solemnity, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Chicken Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chockline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Double Vee T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Dresden T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Final Gesture (mid-cliff start) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fools Gold (Mid-cliff Start) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Geriatric Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Graverobber T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Grim Reaper, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Hatful of Hollow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Homicidal Maniac T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Joke Book, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Jolt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Kim Jung Il T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Layton's Ascent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Lichen Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Lichen It a Lot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Medusa T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Nomad Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Nutcracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Off the Hook T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Perseus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
	Reconciliation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Retaliation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Scenic Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Upper Refuse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Webster's Unabridged T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Youth Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Elevation:	938 ft	286 m
GPS:	44.0622, -71.16582 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Lee Hansche on Jan 15, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The Barber Wall is the upper left wall of Cathedral Ledge, so named for Henry Barber and his extensive collection of first free accents on this section of the cliff. Barber was involved in the freeing of every crack from Nutcracker rightwards to Lichen Delight. All of these are classics and none are light in the grade.

This wall is one the best places to practice crack climbing if you plan to get on the longer more committing crack climbs on the cliff. The skills you learn on these 60 to nearly 200 foot climbs (the cliff gets taller as you head to the right toward Retaliation) can even be well applied to walls like Cannon Cliff or even the big walls of Yosemite. Locals often meet here for after work sessions in the evening so it is possible to meet partners here for some cragging.

Though this area is known for its cracks there are a number of desperate sport routes and mixed (bolt/trad) climbs. In the winter, ice covers much of the cliff making for great steep ice climbing.

Getting There

To get there, climb any route on the lower left wall. Or from the top hike south along the edge of the cliff meeting a trail that wraps around to the midway ledge splitting the Lower Left and Barber Wall. You will see nutcracker first as you hike along the ledge and the routes just keep on coming till you reach the upper half of the Prow area at Upper Refuse and the Book of Solemnity. You can also find the top of Double Vee and rap in.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Barber Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 442 ● Upper Refuse Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 258 ● Black Lung Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 218 ● Chicken Delight Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 108 ● Layton's Ascent Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 132 ● Retaliation Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 121 ● Double Vee Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 234 ● The Book of Solemnity Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 234 ● Nutcracker Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 69 ● Nomad Crack Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 33 ● Youth Challenge Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 27 ● Black Crack (mid-cliff start) Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 10 ● Webster's Unabridged Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 82 ● Lichen Delight Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 12 ● The Arete (Mid-Cliff Start) Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 14 ● Graverobber Trad, TR