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Routes in Barber Wall

Arete., The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Dogs T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Deal Rock Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Lung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Book of Solemnity, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicken Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Vee T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dresden T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Final Gesture T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fools Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Graverobber T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Hatful of Hollow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jolt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kim Jung Il T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Layton's Ascent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lichen It a Lot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Medusa T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nomad Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Off the Hook T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perseus T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Reconciliation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Retaliation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Refuse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Webster's Unabridged T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Youth Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 938 ft
GPS: 44.062, -71.166 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 53,453 total · 390/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Description

The Barber Wall is the upper left wall of Cathedral Ledge, so named for Henry Barber and his extensive collection of first free accents on this section of the cliff. Barber was involved in the freeing of every crack from Nutcracker rightwards to Lichen Delight. All of these are classics and none are light in the grade.

This wall is one the best places to practice crack climbing if you plan to get on the longer more committing crack climbs on the cliff. The skills you learn on these 60 to nearly 200 foot climbs (the cliff gets taller as you head to the right toward Retaliation) can even be well applied to walls like Cannon Cliff or even the big walls of Yosemite. Locals often meet here for after work sessions in the evening so it is possible to meet partners here for some cragging.

Though this area is known for its cracks there are a number of desperate “sport” routes and mixed (bolt/trad) climbs. In the winter, ice covers much of the cliff making for grate steep ice climbing.

Getting There

To get there, climb any route on the lower left wall. Or from the top hike south along the edge of the cliff meeting a trail that wraps around to the midway ledge splitting the Lower Left and Barber Wall. You will see nutcracker first as you hike along the ledge and the routes just keep on coming till you reach the upper half of the Prow area at Upper Refuse and the Book of Solemnity. You can also find the top of Double Vee and rap in.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Barber Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 256
Upper Refuse
Trad 3 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 26
Final Gesture
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 146
Black Lung
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 118
Chicken Delight
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 68
Layton's Ascent
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 75
Retaliation
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 78
Double Vee
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 149
The Book of Solemnity
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 123
Nutcracker
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Bo…
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 38
Nomad Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 15
Youth Challenge
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Black Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 45
Lichen Delight
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
The Arete.
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Upper Refuse
 256
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Final Gesture
 26
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Black Lung
 146
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Chicken Delight
 118
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Layton's Ascent
 68
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Retaliation
 75
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Double Vee
 78
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Book of Solemnity
 149
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Nutcracker
 123
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Book of Solemnibeast (varia…
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Nomad Crack
 38
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Youth Challenge
 15
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Black Crack
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Lichen Delight
 45
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
The Arete.
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
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Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This wall is absolutely beautiful. It's got this black, dark, steep vibe... and is quite secluded by Cathedral standards..... You can rap down and then there's this great giant flat ledge beneath the climbs

So many great NH cracks and pods (and a little of my finger blood) Sep 22, 2015

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