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Elevation: 938 ft 286 m
GPS: 44.0622, -71.16582
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 134,056 total · 632/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jan 15, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

The Barber Wall is the upper left wall of Cathedral Ledge, so named for Henry Barber and his extensive collection of first free accents on this section of the cliff. Barber was involved in the freeing of every crack from Nutcracker rightwards to Lichen Delight. All of these are classics and none are light in the grade.

This wall is one the best places to practice crack climbing if you plan to get on the longer more committing crack climbs on the cliff. The skills you learn on these 60 to nearly 200 foot climbs (the cliff gets taller as you head to the right toward Retaliation) can even be well applied to walls like Cannon Cliff or even the big walls of Yosemite. Locals often meet here for after work sessions in the evening so it is possible to meet partners here for some cragging.

Though this area is known for its cracks there are a number of desperate “sport” routes and mixed (bolt/trad) climbs. In the winter, ice covers much of the cliff making for great steep ice climbing.

Getting There Suggest change

To get there, climb any route on the lower left wall. Or from the top hike south along the edge of the cliff meeting a trail that wraps around to the midway ledge splitting the Lower Left and Barber Wall. You will see nutcracker first as you hike along the ledge and the routes just keep on coming till you reach the upper half of the Prow area at Upper Refuse and the Book of Solemnity. You can also find the top of Double Vee and rap in.

35 Total Climbs

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Location: Barber Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Barber Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 416
Upper Refuse
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 246
Black Lung
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 207
Chicken Delight
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 104
Layton's Ascent
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 129
Retaliation
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 114
Double Vee
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 223
The Book of Solemnity
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 222
Nutcracker
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 67
Nomad Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 30
Youth Challenge
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 25
Black Crack (mid-cliff start)
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 8
Webster's Unabridged
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 80
Lichen Delight
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
The Arete (Mid-Cliff Start)
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Graverobber
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Upper Refuse
 416
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Black Lung
 246
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Chicken Delight
 207
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Layton's Ascent
 104
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Retaliation
 129
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Double Vee
 114
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Book of Solemnity
 223
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Nutcracker
 222
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Nomad Crack
 67
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Youth Challenge
 30
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Black Crack (mid-cliff start)
 25
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Webster's Unabridged
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Lichen Delight
 80
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
The Arete (Mid-Cliff Start)
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Graverobber
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Barber Wall »

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