Type: Trad
FA: FFA Bob Anderson and Henry Barber
Page Views: 3,468 total · 24/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 24, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


82 Opinions

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Description

Double Vee is a classic example of Cathedral 5.9+ and can feel really stiff until you get the beta dialed in. Then it only feels a little stiff. I know the first time I did it I threw in a few 5.12 moves where I could have saved some energy with better beta. It looks much more easy and straightforward than it is, so brace yourself...

Climb mostly face holds along a thin crack through the first "vee" notch. This gets you to a nice rest stance. Then head in to the second "vee" (small nut for protection) and on to a surprisingly challenging mantel finish.

Location

To the right of Nut Cracker, look for the thin crack leading through two "vee" grooves. Hard to miss.

Protection

Regular rack with small nuts and TCUs to a tree with fixed rap anchor.

Photos

Ladd

  5.9+
Ladd    
  5.9+
Perfect example of Cathedral 5.9+
Must do for the 5.10 and harder Trad climber. May 30, 2007
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
I loved the hairy slopey mantels out of each V-notch...exciting! Feb 24, 2009
Bjorn
WNC
 
Bjorn   WNC
 
I don't know what consensus is talking about with this two and a half stars nonsense. This route is great fun. Jun 28, 2010
Nate R
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Nate R   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
I agree the mantels were pretty exciting, especially the last one!

Great climb. Aug 13, 2011
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
 
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
 
An impressive amount of climbing for such a short looking climb. The "vees" are exciting but not the crux in my opinion. Jun 19, 2014
Dankasaurus
Lyons, CO
  5.9+ R
Dankasaurus   Lyons, CO
  5.9+ R
This is a difficult and slippery climb. Make sure you get warmed up and have a good belay. The second Vee has a nasty surprise. Surely a deserving of the "Cathedral +" rating along with all the others at this old-school cliff. Aug 16, 2016
Definitely not a climb to test your limits on. The gear isn't terrible overall but the top out is pretty insecure and you might break your ankles on the ledge if you botch it. May 29, 2018