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Routes in Barber Wall

Arete., The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Dogs T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Deal Rock Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Lung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Book of Solemnity, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicken Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Vee T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dresden T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Final Gesture T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fools Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Graverobber T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Hatful of Hollow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jolt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kim Jung Il T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Layton's Ascent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lichen It a Lot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Medusa T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nomad Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Off the Hook T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perseus T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Reconciliation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Retaliation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Refuse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Webster's Unabridged T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Youth Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: FFA Bob Anderson and Henry Barber
Page Views: 3,172 total, 24/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 24, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Double Vee is a classic example of Cathedral 5.9+ and can feel really stiff until you get the beta dialed in. Then it only feels a little stiff. I know the first time I did it I threw in a few 5.12 moves where I could have saved some energy with better beta. It looks much more easy and straightforward than it is, so brace yourself...

Climb mostly face holds along a thin crack through the first "vee" notch. This gets you to a nice rest stance. Then head in to the second "vee" (small nut for protection) and on to a surprisingly challenging mantel finish.

Location

To the right of Nut Cracker, look for the thin crack leading through two "vee" grooves. Hard to miss.

Protection

Regular rack with small nuts and TCUs to a tree with fixed rap anchor.

Photos

Dankasaurus
Lyons, CO
  5.9+ R
Dankasaurus   Lyons, CO
  5.9+ R
This is a difficult and slippery climb. Make sure you get warmed up and have a good belay. The second Vee has a nasty surprise. Surely a deserving of the "Cathedral +" rating along with all the others at this old-school cliff. Aug 16, 2016
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
 
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
 
An impressive amount of climbing for such a short looking climb. The "vees" are exciting but not the crux in my opinion. Jun 19, 2014
Nate R
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Nate R   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
I agree the mantels were pretty exciting, especially the last one!

Great climb. Aug 13, 2011
Bjorn
Leadvegas, CO
 
Bjorn   Leadvegas, CO
 
I don't know what consensus is talking about with this two and a half stars nonsense. This route is great fun. Jun 28, 2010
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
I loved the hairy slopey mantels out of each V-notch...exciting! Feb 24, 2009
Ladd

  5.9+
Ladd    
  5.9+
Perfect example of Cathedral 5.9+
Must do for the 5.10 and harder Trad climber. May 30, 2007