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Routes in Barber Wall

Arete., The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Dogs T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Deal Rock Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Lung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Book of Solemnity, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicken Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Vee T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dresden T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Final Gesture T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fools Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Graverobber T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Hatful of Hollow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jolt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kim Jung Il T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Layton's Ascent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lichen It a Lot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Medusa T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nomad Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Off the Hook T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perseus T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Reconciliation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Retaliation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Refuse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Webster's Unabridged T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Youth Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 3 pitches
FA: J Dunn, J Wilson, Ed Webster, sep 20 1976
Page Views: 1,734 total, 15/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 7, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Wow... much better than I thought it would be. Not that Youth Challenge doesn't look cool, but the second pitch is super fun. The first pitch is a strenuous good time and you should just do it. I love the position of this part of the wall--really nice exposure and view

Pitch 1: (5.10b) Start by jamming and laying back a bit of a grunt of a 5.10 crack. I've heard grades of 10b to 10d, but whatever it is, just plug some gear and hold on until the slightly slopey top out. The gear is harder to get at the crux, so plug a bit down low. Belay with gear and a single bolt.

Pitch 2: (5.10b) Again folks will argue about grades, but this seemed about right to me. Start up a hand crack on the left, then transition to the right-hand crack by way of a good foot. Protect well and make a 5.10 move up in to the sustained upper part. After the crux move, it's sustained 5.9 climbing for the most part until you meet up with Retaliation and get a little rest before that route's pumpy layback crux. Head straight up to the ledge or skirt around to the right. Belay from the ledge on gear.

Pitch 3: (5.6) Head straight up the cracks to the trees.

Location

Youth Challenge is a direct start to Retaliation with pretty much 1 and 3/4 independent pitches. Scramble up on to a ledge below the crux of that route and find the nice clean 35ft crack.

Protection

Regular rack. Some flaring crack make for tricky placements but over all it's well protected.

Photos

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You can do the whole thing as one pitch with a 60m. Jun 13, 2015
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
See my above comment..i did ask Ed about this once time and he said that Jimmie thought it kinda stiff 11 11A from '76 ? Seems real hard for 10B in my book May 19, 2015
Seldom sought; superb, stiff, sustained.

Alliteration aside (ha!), as good as hard 5.10 crack comes at Cathedral!

Agreed with Jason. The first pitch is more thuggish, the second techy. A must climb. May 18, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
This route is totally in-your-face. Stout, steep, strenuous, and sequential (how's that for alliteration)? Oct 20, 2014
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Perhaps the only route on Cathedral that has ever been downgraded... I'm pretty sure that it was 11a for the f/a Sep 24, 2012
I'm with Jason on this one.

One of the best crack climbs of it's grade on the cliff.

Deserves 3 stars. Sep 24, 2012
Jason Denver  
 
Really good route. I don't know why I dont see more people doing it. Great jamming at the grade with excellent protection. Do it! I combined pitches 2&3 with a 60m. Might as well, no need to break for the short 5.6 at the top. Sep 22, 2012
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
Excellent 5.10 crack climbing, with jams of all sizes! Both pitches are fun. The second pitch is particularly cool, with 3 different cracks to overcome before arriving conveniently at the crux of retaliation. Great belay ledges, and good pro, despite some flaring parts as Lee mentioned. Jul 24, 2012