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Routes in Barber Wall

Arete., The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Dogs T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Deal Rock Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Lung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Book of Solemnity, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicken Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Vee T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dresden T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Final Gesture T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fools Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Graverobber T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Hatful of Hollow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jolt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kim Jung Il T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Layton's Ascent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lichen It a Lot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Medusa T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nomad Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Off the Hook T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Perseus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Reconciliation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Retaliation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Refuse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Webster's Unabridged T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Youth Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bayard Russell
Page Views: 1,614 total · 13/month
Shared By: bayard russell jr on Aug 14, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

The pitch free climbs an abandoned Joe Cote aid route; two of its first three bolts are replaced 1/4"-ers. There was some rusty, light duty bail gear on the third bolt when I found it. Joe said the initial seam was the hardest aid climbing he had ever done; he was kicking out pins with his knees as he tried to climb past them. Above the third bolt its all new terrain. The pitch has a variety of climbing from techy Cathedral footwork, a couple of dynamic moves, some wild undercling traversing, a bit of finger crack climbing, and some unexpected sequences.

Location

Kim Jung Il is located on the far right side of the four foot wide traverse ledge that begins at Nomad Crack on the Barber Wall and provides access to Grim Reaper, Homicidal Maniac and others. It is between Homicidal Maniac and Asylum. Look for an awkwardly low bolt where the ledge flattens out, this is a replaced 1/4"-er. Follow bolts and a seam to the left side of an overlap. Traverse right below the overlap, ino a right facing corner and up to a ledge with two bolt rappel anchor.

Protection

There are six bolts plus an anchor with rings. You will also need an assortment of small gear including some RP style small nuts, although as of now a fixed wire protects one of the cruxes. Nothing bigger than .75 Camalot, and maybe a couple of extra tip and finger size pieces.

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