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Routes in Barber Wall
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Arete (Mid-Cliff Start), The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Asylum T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bad Dogs T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Big Deal Rock Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Black Crack (mid-cliff start) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Lung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Book of Solemnity, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chicken Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chockline T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Curse Reversed, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Double Vee T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dresden T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Final Gesture (mid-cliff start) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fools Gold (Mid-cliff Start) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Geriatric Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Graverobber T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Grim Reaper, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Hatful of Hollow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Homicidal Maniac T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Joke Book, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jolt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Kim Jung Il T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Layton's Ascent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lichen Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lichen It a Lot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Medusa T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Nomad Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nutcracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Off the Hook T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Perseus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Reconciliation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Retaliation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scenic Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Upper Refuse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Webster's Unabridged T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Youth Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 121 ft (37 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Chris Gill, Greg McCausland; oct 5, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 326 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Aunt Patty on Nov 7, 2023 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
Two great pitches of Barber wall climbing that follows a meandering thin crack. A neglected classic that appears to stay hidden in plain sight.
p1. Step up off the ledge and clip a conveniently placed bolt. Speak a little body English and work your way up to the hollow flakes. Place some gear after the flakes and take a gander at the faint crack that weaves through the blank face. Enjoyable, well protected climbing leads to a nook where the crack diminishes. Gaze longingly towards the bolt just out of reach and begin an endless up and left traverse that uses just about every type of hold other than jugs. Take a brief shake way out left from the bolt, punch it up into the undercling, place some gear and continue traversing up and left. Once you have arrived at the slippery mantel, grease your way onto the ledge and traverse back right to build a gear anchor near a pin. Belay your second up and enjoy the show.
p2. A wild lil number. Traverse the remainder of the ledge with ease, aiming for the thumb of rock at the end of the ledge. Place a good piece and begin to gently wrestle your way up the thumb as the exposure suddenly kicks up. Clip a bolt from atop the thumb and put on your thinking cap, or, free your mind and your ass will follow. Bit of a run to the next piece with some difficult climbing on the beautiful granite face. The difficulties continue with a few more obvious gear placements until you are able to squirm your way onto the open slabs above. Go straight up to the big pine (the one very very far away) to belay, or, build a gear anchor in overlap to the right. Either way, its a long walk to get to an anchor.
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