Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: Ed Webster, Paul Ross Sept 3, 1978
Page Views: 2,227 total · 19/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jan 6, 2010
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

A very committing lead up the spectacular knife edge just to the left of Black Crack and Upper Refuse. Due to the run outs on this climb it is not popular with modern climbers and is rarely led.It was the hardest lead on the Barber wall in the 1970's however it was by Ed Webster.

P1)Stay on the edge of the arete, laybacking some flakes, then a hard move to a small overhang. Follow thin cracks to a bolt and stance. Face climb straight up (5.11b R) to a ledge. Then follow incipient cracks (5.9R) to the top. 165' 5.11b R.

Location

Cathedral Ledge.

Protection

Normal Rack.

Photos

john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Well paul you sure sidestepped the ethics tightrope with this one ! Anyway a really good route that is maybe lead every few years. Jan 7, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Did Rick Fleming get the ascent of the "chopped" version? I thought this was an excellent route although an encounter with a wasp's nest up high, a wee bit above an RP#3, was alarming. Jan 8, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Ya i think it was Rick. I remember it being a pretty big deal too. I know when I led it, it seemed kindaspooky but really good. How about staying on the true arete ? Jan 8, 2010
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.11b
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.11b
To the best of my memory this was the first and only FA that I did on both Cathedral and Whitehorse where I came in from the top (now normal procedure)all other FA's where done ground up on sight.The reason for coming in from the top was not to bolt it but to clean off the very thick lichen and to see if there was holds under it.As I had already used what I considered at that time a cheating method to clean and inspect the climb I thought as it appeared that protecting the crux by hand drilling free on the lead looked out of the question for us.So as sins had already been committed by the inspection from above etc I placed one bolt at the crux and another on the top 5.9 section.Some time later screaming started about rap bolting in general (not just over this climb) ..which I agreed with ....so I chopped the two bolts, hoping that a better climber would in my opinion would do it the right way.. free on sight while placing the pro bolts on lead . This did not happen in 1980 Rick Fleming and Joe Lentini replaced the crux bolt by aid climbing the route ,pulled their ropes and then completed a ground up ascent... perhaps splittings hairs on ethics? Jan 8, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
New Hampshire was always a bit dodgy on the consistency aspect of ethics. A little TR cleaning here, a rap bolt there, stray aid pieces left fixed, maybe some creative pin scarring, it all adds up to good stories in retrospect. Jan 9, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
GEE Peter, not talking about anything in particular ???? HA HA Jan 19, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
No, no, no! Nothing at all in particular. Have you heard anything? Jan 19, 2010
apross
 
apross  
 
I replaced the original crux bolt around 1988, then preceded to brake a hold and take a 30 footer on it.
The peg that protected the moves to the arete came out with one tap. I did put it back in but not too hard as I did not want to knock the flake off!
Who knows how it is, if its still there?

Some great climbing, give it a scrub first. May 5, 2010
David Aguasca!
New York
  5.11d
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.11d
This is the arete to the left of Black Crack and the Upper Refuse ramp. May 12, 2010
bayard russell jr
Madison, NH
bayard russell jr   Madison, NH
Only the outline of the flake is there still, it is really scary trying to climb the route that way. There is not even a bad pin for pro anymore...

The Madara/Lougee start to the Arete is much better protected than the original. Locate an arch coming into the route from the left. Shove some gear in it and ease into the crux. Access from the higher ledge left of
Rufuse (right of Youth Callenge). Jul 5, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
I'm suprised that those flakes lasted as long as they did. I think they were called "creaky" 30 years ago. Jul 11, 2011
cleaned the start of the madara/lugee variation this year and the top. Sep 9, 2013
I almost never visit MP, but saw this. Paul has the ascent I did with Joe Lentini right. I had led the route before it had been chopped, but post-chop wanted to see it done by someone onsight ground up. I think I even asked Henry back then. Joe and I just decided to try it ground up one day. I broke a hold and fell on the flake pin, cleaned and started again. Tried to place the one bolt up high without using aid (I was using hammer and drill). Couldn't do that but thought about going on just the solid wire 4'-5' below the bolt. Wish I had but wimped out and placed the bolt on aid. Then lowered, cleaned and led. So yes, many hairs split on ethics, and no heroics! Dec 18, 2018
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.11b
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
  5.11b
Good one Rick ....you did a good job on this climb and certainly these days they would not be too many attempts on sight on climbs like this... Cheers Paul Dec 18, 2018