Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: H Barber, D Cilley, F Dean 10/1/1972
Page Views: 14,572 total · 70/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Feb 22, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

If this route would just go on forever, my life would be complete. The flow of movement and aesthetics on this climb are great. The only problem is that it's only 100ft long. For a great climb of a consistent grade, climb Bombardment(5.8) to Black Lung, to Final Gesture (5.8), an awesome link up.

For Black Lung, start up easy ground. It's maybe 5.6 for the first 2/3 of the route. Follow cracks and jugs to a pretty right-facing corner/crack. Move through a technical crux, which consists of 5.8 jamming and finding the somewhat hard to locate feet (mostly out right). This will leave you at the first belay on Upper Refuse (5.5).

Belay from here, or run all the way to the top of Refuse with a stretch of a 60m rope. It's also possible to finish up Final Gesture which is a fave of mine.

Location Suggest change

Black Lung is on the far right hand side of the Barber Wall Ledge--just right of the ramp start of Upper Refuse and left of the Book of Solemnity.

Protection Suggest change

Regular rack.