Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: H Barber, D Cilley, F Dean 10/1/1979
Page Views: 10,524 total · 73/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 22, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


166 Opinions

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Description

If this route would just go on forever, my life would be complete. The flow of movement and aesthetics on this climb are great. The only problem is the it's only 100ft long. For a great climb of a consistent grade, climb Bombardment(5.8) to Black Lung, to Final Gesture (5.8), an awesome link up.

For Black Lung, start up easy ground. It's maybe 5.6 for the first 2/3 of the route. Follow cracks and jugs to a pretty right-facing corner/crack. Move through a technical crux, which consists of 5.8 jamming and finding the somewhat hard to locate feet (mostly out right). This will leave you at the first belay on Upper Refuse (5.5).

Belay from here, or run all the way to the top of Refuse with a stretch of a 60m rope. It's also possible to finish up Final Gesture which is a fave of mine.

Location

Black Lung is on the far right hand side of the Barber Wall Ledge--just right of the ramp start of Upper Refuse and left of the Book of Solemnity.

Protection

Regular rack.

Photos

john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
This route is quite good and well protected but, PLEASE place gear near the top , I have seen several whips and some injuries when leaders rush the end and don't place gear. Jul 1, 2008
Tuxebo
Middletown, RI
Tuxebo   Middletown, RI
This crack is a lot of fun and only a little bit of pain. Unless you forget to place gear at the crux, only to discover you couldn't pull it. Ouch. Sep 1, 2008
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
This is a great route. Another fun link-up of sorts is Bombardment (5.8) to Black Lung (5.8) to Upper Refuse (5.5), it is a lot of fun, there is a little "wandering" to get to each route but a very fun way to the top. Dec 28, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.8
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.8
I like to finish up Final Gesture, a little more commiting but super fun at about the same grade as Bombardment and Black Lung... Dec 28, 2008
Adam Wilcox
Candia, NH
  5.8-
Adam Wilcox   Candia, NH
  5.8-
An awesome route with good rests, hand jams everywhere, and easy gear. Might be a good one to break into the grade on. May 15, 2009
Been on this twice and chickened out and hung both times before easily pulling the crux.

My advice is to protect the crux from the stance. Then,do as I say, not as I do. Sack up and pull the move. It's over quickly. I can get a great #3 BD down a little low in the crux and a 1/.75 from the stance.
Just make sure to protect it.

EVan Nov 9, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Evan, were you on this route yesterday? Nov 9, 2009
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Is the 4" cam mentioned in the book a key piece? I dont have one.. Apr 27, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
I have climbed this route a couple times and never had a #4 with me, use care and protect in the obvious stances and you will be good to go Apr 27, 2014
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Whats the largest piece besides the 4? I have up to a #3 Helium Friend. Of course I can always stop in at IME and get a few bigger pieces... Apr 27, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.8
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.8
#3 Camelot for the last piece Apr 27, 2014
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
 
You do not need a #4. I don't think I've ever placed anything bigger than a gold Cam on this pitch. This little route, BTW, is just about the nicest 50 feet of climbing at the grade to be had on the cliff. Steep, juggy moves, great rests, amazing gear, and a stout little crux right at the top (hint: think handjam and high right foot on a great little edge). Don't be intimidated by the looks of the thing...just do it! Oct 20, 2014
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
We did not need or use a #4.

This route is what rock climbing is all about. Truly exciting and challenging, yet fair for the grade. My favorite line at Cathedral so far! Sep 8, 2015
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Not that it hasn't already been mentioned but this is a GREAT climb! Definitely one of my top three favorites on the cliff. Great rests/ gear placements! May 18, 2016
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
More grounders than all other routes on Cathedral combined..I don't know why..i have participated in 3 rescues of grounders myself..please place gear May 19, 2016
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
 
John is right. For some odd reason this climb sees a lot of falls. The holds are all great and the protection is fantastic, and so it is a bit of a mystery. So I second John, place great gear often, make sure that it is set up for the direction of potential force, and use slings when necessary to minimize gear levering out. This route can be led with a very high degree of safety! May 25, 2016