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Routes in Barber Wall

Arete., The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Dogs T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Deal Rock Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Lung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Book of Solemnity, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicken Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Vee T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dresden T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Final Gesture T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fools Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Graverobber T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Hatful of Hollow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jolt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kim Jung Il T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Layton's Ascent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lichen It a Lot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Medusa T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nomad Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Off the Hook T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perseus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Reconciliation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Retaliation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Refuse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Webster's Unabridged T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Youth Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FFA was Henry Barber with Al Rubin in 1974.
Page Views: 6,062 total · 43/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 8, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Wow. What a climb. First I'll say this: Climb it because it rules!

Lichen Delight is Cathedral 5.11 crack climbing at its best. This is a great way to break in to 5.11 climbing at Cathedral. Though its not soft in the grade, it is well protected and as moderate as 5.11s get at this cliff. Lichen Delight is also much longer than the other classic 5.11a: Airation. As you might guess, this one is a test of endurance rather than a few hard moves.

There is an obscure 2nd pitch, but most people will rap off from a tree with slings. You can also traverse right to the finish of Retaliation (5.9, however, the finish is 5.6).

Right from Nomad Crack (5.10b) find the left facing corner with a small tree growing out of it low down and a handcrack splitting it. Start from a ledge and do a boulder problem to get up in to the corner. Climb the corner utilizing the hand crack. This part is moderate and really fun but not to be taken lightly. Conserve energy for the crux. The corner ends at a roof. Protect and exit right around the roof/corner to gain a finger crack. Follow discontinuing wide finger cracks and not-too-good jams up and left to a final awkward crack at the top. Throughout this section, finding the right feet is important to convince your hands that the jams are good. At the top move right to belay from a tree ledge.

Writing this description just made me want to run out and climb it again...

Location

Walk right from Nomad Crack (5.10b) on the big tree covered ledge. Look for the sweet hand crack in the left facing corner. Start from the ledge below the corner.

Protection

Standard rack... maybe bring extra hand sized cams for the first half. The top takes nuts and small cams.

Photos

john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
FFA was Henry with Al Rubin in 1974. The variation to the left Lichen It A Lot is also very good and almost as hard(10+) and can be easily TR'd from the anchors Jul 12, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11a
Thanks John... Oct 25, 2008
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
 
I agree with John; it's not really enduro. The pitch breaks up nicely into three sections with rests between at no-hands stances. There sure is a lot of climbing in those last 15 feet, though. Good (if small feet) and very tricky jams. Sep 27, 2010
cjdrover
Watertown, MA
 
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
 
I took Lee's advice and went after this as a first 5.11. I see it as a test of mental endurance - there is certainly is only one 5.11 move on it, and plenty of chances to rest, but once you commit to the route and pull onto the crux you'd better be focused if its near your limit. It eases off a little in the last 15 feet but not as much as you're hoping - definitely a challenge to keep it together and not blow the lead. Highly recommended, very fun, super safe. Oct 10, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
A real one move wonder - good choice for a first 11a gear. Much easier than Airation or Ripper

Pretty cool though Oct 10, 2011
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
  5.11a
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
  5.11a
Looks intimidating from the ground but it's pretty solid. Really fun above the roof. Aug 26, 2012
sibylle Hechtel
Colorado
 
sibylle Hechtel   Colorado
 
This was the first time I climbed a first ascent of a route, with a climbing partner. We saw this great crack that was harder than anything my partner or I could climb ... and we were into aid climbing in those days. I was trying to learn to aid climb so I could climb Yosemite walls ....
Anyway, I'm glad it turned out to be such a good free climb. If I ever return to Cathedral, I'll try to free climb it (with an appropriate rope gun. The days when I was regularly leading 5.11 came and went all too quickly .... ) Apr 30, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Sibylle, if you remember any details (date, partner etc.) shoot Lee or me a note and we'll be sure you are attributed. It is nice to get the history. Apr 30, 2013
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
 
Easier than Airation? Hmmm...me thinks not. I have skinny fingers that sink to the hilt into Airation, but on Lichen D. my emaciated digits just rattle around at the crux like bones in a jar. Aug 7, 2015

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