Type: Trad, 250 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,303 total · 28/month
Shared By: mister-midpines on Feb 20, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

This superb variation avoids the awkward second pitch of Book of Solemnity, instead taking you up the Beast Flake and Recompense.

1. First pitch of Book of Solemnity (5.10-, 75')
2. Follow the obvious crack at the right end of the belay ledge (an easy section of Women in Love), and move up and right to the belay at the top of the Beast Flake (5.7, 50')
3. Finish on Recompense (5.9, 50'; 5.9, 75').

Protection

Standard set of nuts and cams.

Photos

E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
While this is a fun link up, I would hardly label the second pitch of the book "awkward". Classic, killer, wicked pissah, thrilling, exposed...words that more readily come to mind when I'm describing it!! Aug 13, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
I agree with Mr. Thatcher. BTW, dropped my wedding ring from the second pitch of this little combo sometime in the mid 1980's, so keep your eyes open as you wander around in the trees and talus at the bottom of the cliff. It's silver and round. Can't remember the size. Made strange pinging sounds as it descended via a series of bounces. Probly gone forever...but sill married to the same girl, which is the most important thing anyway. May 25, 2016
Jason Scott Heacock
Milford, NH
Jason Scott Heacock   Milford, NH
This link up is interesting and fun until you step down off the right side of the belay ledge and make a few moves, the last 10 feet of the traverse is covered in black lichen and would be much better if it was cleaned up -- probably with more traffic it would stay clean and be great!

The other draw back is that you end up 1/2 - 2/3 the way up the beast flake when the traverse is made, missing much of the enjoyment of the beat flake. -- However the last pitch of recompense is stellar and makes this link up worth it (again getting past the lichen is slightly problematic). Jul 22, 2018