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Routes in Barber Wall

Arete., The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Dogs T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Deal Rock Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Lung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Book of Solemnity, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicken Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Vee T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dresden T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Final Gesture T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fools Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Graverobber T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Hatful of Hollow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jolt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kim Jung Il T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Layton's Ascent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lichen It a Lot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Medusa T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nomad Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Off the Hook T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perseus T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Reconciliation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Retaliation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Refuse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Webster's Unabridged T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Youth Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Joe Cote, D Arey, w. freeman 1969 FFA Henry Barber, B Anderson 9/22/72
Page Views: 11,637 total, 88/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 20, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Many find this climb to feel more 5.10ish but respect must go to Henry Barber and others for not bitching about grades and leading it with just nuts.

This beautiful crack ranges from fingers to wide hands and is stellar from top to bottom. The crux comes at about the 1/3 mark and involves thin fingers and/or long reaches to good locks. Many folks find the route to be a pumpy one If you are pumped at the top, the last moves of the route will feel a bit cruxy too.

Location

This is the farthest left perfect crack climb at the Barber Wall.

Protection

Lots of nuts (hence the name) and cams for the new-schoolers.

Actually, the new-schoolers comment is just for history. Do bring cams too.

Make sure to bring a #3 or #3.5 if its your first time on the route.

Photos

Hobo Greg
My Van
5.8+
Hobo Greg   My Van
5.8+
If you are six foot or taller, there is no crux, just awesome locks and jams the whole way. Tons of face holds too for feet. Felt 5.8 to me this time around, thanks Indian Creek. Oct 20, 2017
Sean M
  5.10a/b
Sean M  
  5.10a/b
Just a phenomenal climb. The story about the unfortunate accident had me worried, but this climb really just eats up gear. Its a bit more pumpy than I thought, and loads of fun. Oct 17, 2017
Rob Albert  
 
PSA for anyone looking to get on this climb. Be careful with the gear. My partner pulled 2 pieces and hit the ground from about 30+ feet up. Use good judgment and I suggest using a #2 just before/ at the first crux. I'd hate to have anyone else go through what we went through. I posted a full description of the accident in the North East forum. Jul 12, 2017
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.10a/b
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.10a/b
This thing would be a MOTHER of an onsight for a 9+/10- leader! Doubles from .4 to 2 will be nice. Leave the 4 on the ground but save a 2 for up high! Awesome climb! Jul 9, 2015
I think both Double V, and Chicken Delight are harder the Nutcracker. My fat fingers have difficulty getting into thin cracks.
Nutcracker is my favorite route on that end of the cliff. Jun 7, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Hahaha, Peter. Then how about 8+ for Pine Tree (wink, wink). Apr 28, 2014
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
  5.10a
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
  5.10a
Such a good route! Nov 22, 2012
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Peter, great comment. 5.9 for Pine Tree will never happen :) May 22, 2012
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
In Jerry Handren's new guidebook for the North Conway area (SO MUCH NEW STUFF--available as of late May 2012) he gave Nutcracker the grade of .10a. Been waiting for that for 30 years. Thanks, Jerry! Now, if he'd only stuck .9 on Pine Tree Eliminate... May 22, 2012
hasan Adil
portland,me
hasan Adil   portland,me
Up to the bulge, it feels more face climbing with a finger lock thrown in here and there. There are plenty of the feet with an occasional need to cam your foot. Chicken Delight feels more like a pure crack climbing experience. Aug 27, 2011
My partner and I agree this is the best route ever. #4 was useful. Jul 31, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
haha... wow... seriously? Sep 30, 2009
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Chicken Suscks ! Almost as poor as Double V or Layton's Sep 30, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
wicked wanna get on this route! next time im up there deffinately going down! .... at least attempting at going down :) May 5, 2009
This will test your jamming technique. Tape up if jamming is not your specialty. The rock is very rough. You can easily spot those who have done battle with nutcracker by looking at their hands. May 5, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I dont know about "by FAR" but its a contender for sure... Chicken Delight is my fave in this section (again, other than Lichen Delight)... any other votes? Jul 13, 2008
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Other than Lichen Delight, by FAR the best crack climb on the Barber wall. Jul 12, 2008
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
Whether you are a new or old school leader, a couple of large Cams (#3, #3.5) are a good idea at the off-hands bulge near the top. Feb 26, 2007