Avg: 3 from 255 votes
Routes in Barber Wall
|Arete., The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Bad Dogs T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Big Deal Rock Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Black Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Black Lung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Book of Solemnity, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Chicken Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Double Vee T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Dresden T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Final Gesture T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Fools Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Graverobber T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Hatful of Hollow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Jolt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Kim Jung Il T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Layton's Ascent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lichen Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Lichen It a Lot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Medusa T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Nomad Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Nutcracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Off the Hook T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Perseus T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13|
|Reconciliation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Retaliation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Upper Refuse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Webster's Unabridged T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Youth Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||20,257 total, 155/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Mar 29, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionUpper Refuse is an awesome, moderate route with great climbing, great protection, and great exposure for the grade--a true Cathedral classic. One of very few, real moderates on the cliff, this is a perfect first trad climb.
It can be accessed by hiking around from the top along the big ledge. If you are a beginner, you might want to rope up for the last part of the scramble due to the danger of a BIG fall if you slip. Most people climb Upper Refuse after coming up Fun House (5.7) or another moderate route, though as the name implies there is a Lower Refuse which is not nearly as popular.
Pitch 1: (5.3) Start up the ramp on really easy climbing, and keep an eye out for a few good slots for cam placements. Belay at a good stance at a few pins (back em up with gear) at the top of the ramp section.
Pitch 2: (5.5) Choose your own adventure. Go right up a groveling "V" chimney (not hard but not too fun, in my opinion), or from the belay go up and left following cracks to a layback and a few slabby moves (much more fun). These two choices meet up in a gully formation which you follow to another choice. Breaking right up a crack directly to a pine tree ledge is preferred by most; however, you can avoid a little difficulty by continuing up the gully, then stepping right on to the ledge. Belay from a pine tree on a very comfortable ledge.
Pitch 3: (5.5) Two choices again: follow cracks and face climbing straight up above the ledge (this is the usual finish and the one I like better), or if exposure isn't your thing, stick to the corner on the left following a wide, layback crack. Both of these lead to the same ledge at the top where you can go up a short slab to belay from trees. The pins were removed from the top of the climb last season and I think it stayed that way.
The climb can be done in one long rope stretch with a 60m rope. Rope drag can be rough so plan for that in advance. This is one of the most crowded climbs on the cliff, so on a busy day, plan on making a day of it and meeting lots of new friends.