Avg: 3.1 from 75 votes
Routes in Barber Wall
|Arete., The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Bad Dogs T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Big Deal Rock Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Black Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Black Lung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Book of Solemnity, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Chicken Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Double Vee T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Dresden T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Final Gesture T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Fools Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Graverobber T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Hatful of Hollow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Jolt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Kim Jung Il T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Layton's Ascent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lichen Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Lichen It a Lot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Medusa T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Nomad Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Nutcracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Off the Hook T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Perseus T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13|
|Reconciliation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Retaliation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Upper Refuse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Webster's Unabridged T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Youth Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Joe Cote and Eric Radack Oct .17th, 1971|
|Page Views:||7,271 total, 56/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Mar 24, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThis climb is one of those that the first time you look at it it makes you feel like you must climb it. It speaks to you and draws you in. That is both good and bad: good because it is a stellar route, bad because it can draw you in when you are not ready. There have been a few injuries on this climb over the past few years due to people getting pumped, stuffing in less than optimal gear, and then falling from the powerful pumpy layback crux.
It's a great climb, so by all means climb it, but be sure to take the time to make every piece count. There is good gear all the way. but it can be tough to see, since the crack is at your knees much of the time.
Pitch 1: (5.6) Climb the right leaning crack off of the ledge to a small belay stance to the right of the crack. It's a hand and fist size for the most part. Build an anchor in the crack.
Pitch 2: (5.9) Continue along the crack using face holds when they present themselves. It is possible in a few spots to step down and right to get a good view of your placement, and the climbing to come. The crux comes as a tough, burly, layback as the crack steepens. Take the time to protect well. After that you get to a stance below a final crack. The original line went right around easy climbing to the ledge, but if you want another 5.9 crux then fire the crack straight up to the ledge. Belay in a crack on the ledge.
Pitch 3: (5.6) Head up the cracks past a pin to more easy climbing and in to the woods at the top. Belay from trees. Hike off, or hitch a ride...