Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Mike Stultz, George Eyper, Joe Cote 1971
Page Views: 3,313 total · 28/month
Shared By: David Aguasca! on Apr 29, 2009 with updates from Eli .
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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If you've ever climbed Upper Refuse and looked up at the offwidth crack that looms ominously over its first pitch...wonder no longer. This route gets nearly zero traffic, on account of the hideously dirty start and finish. Ignoring these, though, the middle is splitter and houses some serious teeth, so tape up and wear long pants...taped knees might not be a bad idea, too.

You can either climb the crack, which starts with a series of flakes, or you can avoid the grunge and climb a series of ledges which deposits you in an alcove below the nicer-looking section.


Start up the Upper Refuse ramp and head into the right-facing corner.


There's a fixed tricam, pin, and a jingus bolt.

You'll need big cams: several #5 and 6 camalots oughtta do it. Bring a couple medium size cams as well, as the topout can be protected reasonably well.

Be aware that there are sections of this with less than adequate protection.


Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
Jerry Handren's guidebook calls this 5.10d. Webster calls it just 5.10 (I think). Now here it's 5.10a? Which one is it?

This thing looks seriously cool - and brutal! Can't wait to get on it! May 25, 2009
Erik Eisele  
It's probably 10b, though it's significantly easier than any Yosemite 5.10 offwidth.

The business takes old 4.5 or new number 5 Camalots and number 5 Friends. Three is plenty. You can walk one the whole way and essentially be on TR, dropping the other two behind you as you go. You could place a number 6 at the top, but the climbing eases up by then so you don't need to. Apr 22, 2010
My favorite climb on this section of the cliff. If you aren't familiar with OW it feels very hard. OW is hard to grade but this does have great grit to it in contrast to Yos OW which are just polished. Very fun! George Hurley did it in the winter expecting a nice ice flow in the back.
He ended up holstering his tools and sending in crampons! I think he was in his mid-60s at the time. No excuses now! Aug 22, 2011
In comparison to diedre direct and piss easy this is a lighter 10 cathedral offwith, I found the rock to be grippy and lots of little edges inside and outside of the crack. Eric is right, I brought and old style 4.5 and two bd 6., I placed the 4.5 near the start of the ow and walked a 6 until I was happy moving passed it then walked the other 6 until I was comfy getting into the grooves at the top entering the gully. Such a cool route. Jun 1, 2012
dirtbag hero
Columbia, Mo
dirtbag hero   Columbia, Mo
Can you rap in and climb this route?! Aug 5, 2013
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Could, or just climb from the giant ledge or walk down. Aug 5, 2013
how did this get a PG 13? Sep 9, 2013
David Aguasca!
New York
David Aguasca!   New York

I added this route before I knew any better, and actually I was intending on climbing it while I lived in NH but never got around to it. From what I remember the PG13 is from when the route was first climbed, they didn't really have adequate pro for the main section, so instead some sketchy star drives or 1/4 inchers were used, which are in situ to this day.

If you climbed it, what did you think of it? Apr 10, 2014
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
The first ascent was made in 1971 by Mike Stultz , George Eyper and Joe Cote .This party placed a 6" bong for protection . While not actually used as aid, it was impossible to avoid coming in contact with it.Barber and Masury in 1976 climbed it without the bong.. a bolt placed next to the crack is used for protection. Apr 27, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
After years of thinking about it and a few times showing up only to find it wet, I finally got to climb black crack. Taking advice from this thread I brought a pair of jeans and a long sleeve shirt to protect my skin, but.... forget them until I was tied in beneith the route in shorts and a T-shirt. Seeing as it was 90+ degrees out I wasn't too broken up about it. Precise movement allowed me to get a clean onsight without spilling any blood. I found this to be one of the best 5.10s I've climbed in the area. Exceptional.

I used three #5 cams and a #6.. I also brought a normal rack of cams and put them to good use. Could get by with less but that was a comfortable rack. Jul 22, 2017
frank dahlmeyer
north conway nh
frank dahlmeyer   north conway nh
The so called jingus bolt in the description has been replaced but the pin and tricam are still there . Oct 1, 2017
Trevor Livingston
Reno, NV
Trevor Livingston   Reno, NV
Super classic off-width climbing! The crack still has a fair amount of grit, which is painfully comforting when groveling up this monster. I was able to bump a #5 c4 up the meat of the climb... a #6 fits at the top but is probably not necessary, as the climbing eases significantly. There is a decent-looking tree at the top that I rapped from with some cord, webbing, and a single quick link, all of which are in okay shape. A rap with a 60m rope will get you to a nice ledge 10ish feet off the ground, from which you can easily down climb. Get on it! Oct 25, 2017