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Routes in Barber Wall

Arete., The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Dogs T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Deal Rock Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Lung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Book of Solemnity, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicken Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Vee T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dresden T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Final Gesture T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fools Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Graverobber T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Hatful of Hollow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jolt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kim Jung Il T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Layton's Ascent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lichen It a Lot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Medusa T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nomad Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Off the Hook T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perseus T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Reconciliation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Retaliation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Refuse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Webster's Unabridged T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Youth Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Mike Stultz, George Eyper, Joe Cote 1971
Page Views: 2,782 total, 27/month
Shared By: David Aguasca! on Apr 29, 2009 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

If you've ever climbed Upper Refuse and looked up at the offwidth crack that looms ominously over its first pitch...wonder no longer. This route gets nearly zero traffic, on account of the hideously dirty start and finish. Ignoring these, though, the middle is splitter and houses some serious teeth, so tape up and wear long pants...taped knees might not be a bad idea, too.

You can either climb the crack, which starts with a series of flakes, or you can avoid the grunge and climb a series of ledges which deposits you in an alcove below the nicer-looking section.

Location

Start up the Upper Refuse ramp and head into the right-facing corner.

Protection

There's a fixed tricam, pin, and a jingus bolt.

You'll need big cams: several #5 and 6 camalots oughtta do it. Bring a couple medium size cams as well, as the topout can be protected reasonably well.

Be aware that there are sections of this with less than adequate protection.
Super classic off-width climbing! The crack still has a fair amount of grit, which is painfully comforting when groveling up this monster. I was able to bump a #5 c4 up the meat of the climb... a #6 fits at the top but is probably not necessary, as the climbing eases significantly. There is a decent-looking tree at the top that I rapped from with some cord, webbing, and a single quick link, all of which are in okay shape. A rap with a 60m rope will get you to a nice ledge 10ish feet off the ground, from which you can easily down climb. Get on it! Oct 25, 2017
frank dahlmeyer
north conway nh
 
frank dahlmeyer   north conway nh
 
The so called jingus bolt in the description has been replaced but the pin and tricam are still there . Oct 1, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
After years of thinking about it and a few times showing up only to find it wet, I finally got to climb black crack. Taking advice from this thread I brought a pair of jeans and a long sleeve shirt to protect my skin, but.... forget them until I was tied in beneith the route in shorts and a T-shirt. Seeing as it was 90+ degrees out I wasn't too broken up about it. Precise movement allowed me to get a clean onsight without spilling any blood. I found this to be one of the best 5.10s I've climbed in the area. Exceptional.

I used three #5 cams and a #6.. I also brought a normal rack of cams and put them to good use. Could get by with less but that was a comfortable rack. Jul 22, 2017
Eli
Lives in a truck
5.10
Eli   Lives in a truck
5.10
This route is incredibly well protected. A .75 fits in an elusive pocket at the top, you can forgo the last #6. #5s will do for most of it. Also it is not "hideously dirty". The bolt seems totally bomber, don't clip that fixed gear. Sep 28, 2015
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
The first ascent was made in 1971 by Mike Stultz , George Eyper and Joe Cote .This party placed a 6" bong for protection . While not actually used as aid, it was impossible to avoid coming in contact with it.Barber and Masury in 1976 climbed it without the bong.. a bolt placed next to the crack is used for protection. Apr 27, 2014
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
Samuel,

I added this route before I knew any better, and actually I was intending on climbing it while I lived in NH but never got around to it. From what I remember the PG13 is from when the route was first climbed, they didn't really have adequate pro for the main section, so instead some sketchy star drives or 1/4 inchers were used, which are in situ to this day.

If you climbed it, what did you think of it? Apr 10, 2014
how did this get a PG 13? Sep 9, 2013
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Could, or just climb from the giant ledge or walk down. Aug 5, 2013
dirtbag hero
Columbia, Mo
dirtbag hero   Columbia, Mo
Can you rap in and climb this route?! Aug 5, 2013
In comparison to diedre direct and piss easy this is a lighter 10 cathedral offwith, I found the rock to be grippy and lots of little edges inside and outside of the crack. Eric is right, I brought and old style 4.5 and two bd 6., I placed the 4.5 near the start of the ow and walked a 6 until I was happy moving passed it then walked the other 6 until I was comfy getting into the grooves at the top entering the gully. Such a cool route. Jun 1, 2012
My favorite climb on this section of the cliff. If you aren't familiar with OW it feels very hard. OW is hard to grade but this does have great grit to it in contrast to Yos OW which are just polished. Very fun! George Hurley did it in the winter expecting a nice ice flow in the back.
He ended up holstering his tools and sending in crampons! I think he was in his mid-60s at the time. No excuses now! Aug 22, 2011
Erik Eisele  
 
It's probably 10b, though it's significantly easier than any Yosemite 5.10 offwidth.

The business takes old 4.5 or new number 5 Camalots and number 5 Friends. Three is plenty. You can walk one the whole way and essentially be on TR, dropping the other two behind you as you go. You could place a number 6 at the top, but the climbing eases up by then so you don't need to. Apr 22, 2010
Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
Jerry Handren's guidebook calls this 5.10d. Webster calls it just 5.10 (I think). Now here it's 5.10a? Which one is it?

This thing looks seriously cool - and brutal! Can't wait to get on it! May 25, 2009