Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: Mike Stultz, George Eyper, Joe Cote 1971
Page Views: 4,672 total · 34/month
Shared By: David Aguasca! on Apr 29, 2009 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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If you've ever climbed Upper Refuse and looked up at the offwidth crack that looms ominously over its first pitch...wonder no longer. This route gets nearly zero traffic, on account of the hideously dirty start and finish. Ignoring these, though, the middle is splitter and houses some serious teeth, so tape up and wear long pants...taped knees might not be a bad idea, too.

You can either climb the crack, which starts with a series of flakes, or you can avoid the grunge and climb a series of ledges which deposits you in an alcove below the nicer-looking section.


Start up the Upper Refuse ramp and head into the right-facing corner.


There's a fixed tricam, pin, and a jingus bolt.

You'll need big cams: several #5 and 6 camalots oughtta do it. Bring a couple medium size cams as well, as the topout can be protected reasonably well.

Be aware that there are sections of this with less than adequate protection.