Type: Trad, TR, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: FA Henry Barber & Bob Anderson 1972 FFA John Bragg & Steve Wunsch 1974
Page Views: 928 total · 24/month
Shared By: Mack Johnson on Jul 6, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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The rounded vertical crack system up the continuously steep wall, cruxy at the top.  There are some wide shallow cracks.  Strenuous jamming and laybacking on very nice, rough rock.  A committing piece of work. 

Start on the left side of the ledge, and scramble across it to the base of the crack. Place good gear, then make a few hard moves to an incut hold and a layback flake, then pull into the main crack system. The incut hold is sometimes wet, but there is an alternate start that underclings from the left to avoid this section. From here, enjoy a long section of hand jamming, stemming, big pinches, jugs, crack switches, and good rests in chimney pods. This is lots of fun and has great variety for Cathedral. After the last chimney pod, make a fun sequence on crimps and stems to the next hand crack, protect here and get ready for the crux. Make a challenging layback sequence to a mega jug that beckons from above. Hit it with relief, shake out, and move right to the rounded crack. A hidden pod takes a finger sized cam. Make a few interesting moves on rounded cracks as the angle slowly eases. Belay from a tree with green tat. Now wasn't that fun?


35 right of Nomad Crack, left of Homicidal Maniac.


Double rack to #3, single #4 or #5. Triples in 0.5 - 1 might be useful. Save a #1 for before the crux and an 0.4 for after (0.3 totem).