Type: Trad
FA: Joe Cote, Larry Poorman FFA Henry Barber and B Anderson FA The Wanderer Ed Webster & Peter Williams 1977
Page Views: 6,539 total · 31/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jan 23, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Nomad Crack is a tricky route that starts straight up for 20ft before following the crack right. This right-angling crack contains the route's thought-provoking crux. Many people undercling through the crux, but I stayed low, using marginal locks but pretty good small feet to gain the finger-lock that marks the end of the crux section. After the crux, head straight up again following the crack past at least one more tricky move to gain the summit.

This is one of the only routes in this section that has a nice easy finish. Though it might be a little dirty, it is secure chimney climbing for the last 10 feet.

Like a true Henry Barber climb, expect hard for the grade climbing on a killer crack line.He was truly the man at that time. It seems he had something to do with almost every crack climb at Cathedral between 5.9 and 5.11.

Location Suggest change

Nomad Crack is the next crack right from Layton's Ascent. The route starts from a ledge that you step down to as you walk right along the wall.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack. The pro up to the crux is mostly small, so bring some TCUs or the like. After that it's all bomber nuts and good sized cams.