Type: Trad
FA: Joe Cote, L Poorman FFA Henery Barber and B Anderson
Page Views: 4,543 total · 31/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 23, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

Nomad Crack is a tricky route that starts straight up for 20ft before following the crack right. This right-angling crack contains the route's thought-provoking crux. Many people undercling through the crux, but I stayed low, using marginal locks but pretty good small feet to gain the finger-lock that marks the end of the crux section. After the crux, head straight up again following the crack past at least one more tricky move to gain the summit.

This is one of the only routes in this section that has a nice easy finish. Though it might be a little dirty, it is secure chimney climbing for the last 10 feet.

Like a true Henry Barber climb, expect hard for the grade climbing on a killer crack line.He was truly the man at that time. It seems he had something to do with almost every crack climb at Cathedral between 5.9 and 5.11.

Location

Nomad Crack is the next crack right from Layton's Ascent. The route starts from a ledge that you step down to as you walk right along the wall.

Protection

Standard rack. The pro up to the crux is mostly small, so bring some TCUs or the like. After that it's all bomber nuts and good sized cams.

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10b
I just got around to climbing this route for the first time yesterday.... What a great climb.... Just as challenging as it is thought provoking.... A must do for climbers of hard cracks.... Jun 13, 2007
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
ive been trying to find a end of summer trad goal and i think i just found it.... Mar 3, 2008
this route is decent but dont hold a very high expectation, the bottom 15 is awesome however the top 25 changes drastically, the pic of dave rose in websters book makes it look like an amazing splitter/layback flake, after the crux to the ledge it backs off to about 5.8 kitty litter groovin'. Jan 4, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Nomad should not even be allowed on the Barber Wall. Dave is just trying to make it look good. Jan 11, 2011
Steven Cooney
North Conway, NH
Steven Cooney   North Conway, NH
The right hand start is to Nomad is good too and adds an additional crux at mid 5.10. Just right of the Nomad start is Graverobber. The first thirty feet of Graverobber was cleaned long ago as a variation to Nomad and is called The Wanderer. Sep 3, 2018