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Routes in Barber Wall

Arete., The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Dogs T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Deal Rock Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Lung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Book of Solemnity, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicken Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Vee T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dresden T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Final Gesture T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fools Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Graverobber T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Hatful of Hollow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jolt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kim Jung Il T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Layton's Ascent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lichen It a Lot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Medusa T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nomad Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Off the Hook T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perseus T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Reconciliation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Retaliation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Refuse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Webster's Unabridged T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Youth Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Callaghan and Wooding, circa '86
Page Views: 1,055 total · 14/month
Shared By: chris magness on Sep 18, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Although neglected and a little dirty, this climb is SUPERB. Techy face climbing on small, hidden crimps. Look for an undercling/ layback 20' left of Chicken Delight.

Protection

2 bolts below the ledge, and a couple of small to medium stoppers and possibly a .4 above the ledge. Stick clip the first bolt. Sustained and sequency. Bolts (recently replaced) are very well placed. Doesn't look it, but well protected and highly recommendable.

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john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Good to hear from you Steve Jun 17, 2016
I'm SW, who did the FA with Tom. An FA year of '86 means I was about 16 when we did it. He was my unofficial climbing mentor. Such a kind guy.

Off the Hook was a really fun and memorable FA. It arose out of a mix of sport and traditional approaches. I noticed the climb one summer and soloed it on top rope a number of times. I was all set to rap bolt and red point it, and mentioned this to Tom. Being a polite guy he didn't point out how obnoxious I was to talk about rap bolting the Barber Wall and instead suggested we finish it from the ground up. Sounded great to me.

Tom's ground up FA was terrific and, as is often the case with him, extremely bold. It's difficult to appreciate his accomplishment given how well protected the climb is now. The original route description is correct about the pin - we put one behind an expanding flake near the bottom of the route. The flake was so loose it's no surprise the pin is gone. The flake itself may be gone. Above the flake Tom was using skyhooks for protection while he drilled (hence the climb's name). At one point he used a RURP! At the top he ran it out to the finish instead of pausing to protect (again, classic Tom). Tom definitely could have made things easier for himself by just bolting from the most convenient stances, but he was determined to make it an overall quality route and was willing to put himself out there for it. Truly impressive. Jun 16, 2016
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
I was talking to the f/a'er the other day about keeping up with "route maintenance " tough to do Nov 7, 2013
there was also a flake with a pin behind it on the f/a. Not any more. Nov 7, 2013
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Interesting, there was no stick clipping on the f/a Sep 10, 2013
you can place gear in double v to protect the start if you don't want to stick clip it. Sep 9, 2013
cjdrover
Watertown, MA
  5.11b
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
  5.11b
Fun! Beta intensive, but I think 11b is fair once you work out the sequence. Good luck with the onsight, you'll need it. (PS - stick clip is essential, book mentions a low pin but it is gone) Jul 9, 2012
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Under about 5'11" or so and things could get a bit jumpy for sure. Sep 19, 2011
The grade is a suggestion, this route feels like it has some hard 5.11 moves to me and is very sustained. Harder for shorter climbers. I'll update the FA. Thanks! Sep 18, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
F/A Tom Callaghan and Steve Wooding around 86 or so. Slight dyno at the crux, at least for me. Tom will be happy to see the old 11b grade is now 11+ ! I remember some RP's as well. Sep 18, 2011