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Off the Hook
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.8 from 10
votes
Routes in Barber Wall
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Arete., The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bad Dogs T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Big Deal Rock Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Black Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Lung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Book of Solemnity, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chicken Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Double Vee T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dresden T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Final Gesture T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Fools Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Graverobber T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Hatful of Hollow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Jolt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Kim Jung Il T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Layton's Ascent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lichen Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lichen It a Lot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Medusa T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Nomad Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nutcracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Off the Hook T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Perseus T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Reconciliation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Retaliation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Upper Refuse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Webster's Unabridged T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Youth Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 60 ft |
| FA: | Callaghan and Wooding, circa '86 |
| Page Views: | 1,070 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | chris magness on Sep 18, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall |
Your Star Rating:
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southern colo
southern colo
Watertown, MA
southern colo
southern colo
Off the Hook was a really fun and memorable FA. It arose out of a mix of sport and traditional approaches. I noticed the climb one summer and soloed it on top rope a number of times. I was all set to rap bolt and red point it, and mentioned this to Tom. Being a polite guy he didn't point out how obnoxious I was to talk about rap bolting the Barber Wall and instead suggested we finish it from the ground up. Sounded great to me.
Tom's ground up FA was terrific and, as is often the case with him, extremely bold. It's difficult to appreciate his accomplishment given how well protected the climb is now. The original route description is correct about the pin - we put one behind an expanding flake near the bottom of the route. The flake was so loose it's no surprise the pin is gone. The flake itself may be gone. Above the flake Tom was using skyhooks for protection while he drilled (hence the climb's name). At one point he used a RURP! At the top he ran it out to the finish instead of pausing to protect (again, classic Tom). Tom definitely could have made things easier for himself by just bolting from the most convenient stances, but he was determined to make it an overall quality route and was willing to put himself out there for it. Truly impressive. Jun 16, 2016
southern colo