Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: P Ross, A Greene
Page Views: 3,542 total · 25/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 22, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

Though a little dirty at times (mostly lichen), this route deserves attention. Compared to fighting the crowds on upper Refuse (5.5), climbing this route is a no-brainer, as long as you are solid in the grade.

After climbing half of the 2nd pitch of Upper Refuse, break left heading up towards an obvious detached block at the top of the cliff. Climb to a fixed pin (you can back it up with a nut), then follow the lichen covered low angle face up and left (can feel a bit spicy) to a crack that will bring you to the block.

Layback then mantel the block or hump your way over it and step left and to the cliff top. Belay from trees.

Location

Break right halfway up Upper Refuse (5.5).

Protection

Fixed pin and trad gear. Protects well with a standard rack to wide hand or fist size.

Photos

losbill  
Paul/Lee --- Where is the start to FG in relation to the point where Black Lung joins Upper Refuse? Thanks Jan 10, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.8
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.8
after those 2 routes join climb upper refuse for about 30-40 feet to the spot where you start heading up to the tree ledge belay, instead break left and trend up and left toward the obvious block... it is a little tricky to find the spot which is one reason why this fun moderate sees so little traffic... Jan 10, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.8
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.8
haha sorry paul i was always told that the mantel was the gesture :) funny how your history can get changed... it is good to have you on the sight to give us some history on the amazing climbs you put up! Jan 10, 2010
losbill  
Lee --- Thanks. Twice in the past I have looked left as I approached the tree ledge and not been sure where the line was. Based on your comment, it appears the last time I was actually at the start but felt I was too far up the ramp. I will give it a go next time I'm up there. Jan 10, 2010
apross  
A good one to link with Black Lung. May 5, 2010
Annaconda
Seattle, WA
 
Annaconda   Seattle, WA
 
For a "5.8 Awkward" outing, do Funhouse Left to Black Lung to this. The final, um, "mantle" is so awesome ... can't believe this doesn't get climbed more!! Aug 7, 2010
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Went back to lead this today after following it years ago. I really enjoy this pitch. A little balancy stepping away from Upper Refuse initially, but REALLY fun! Will definitely head out this to avoid traffic in the future. :D

Bombardment > Black Lung > Final Gesture = 5.8Fun! May 13, 2012
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
 
This is one of those unheralded Cathedral routes that's dead-obvious and obscure at the same time. I mean, it's right there, but it hardly ever gets done. Fifteen feet above the chimney/groove on Upper Refuse, step left on the obvious foot-ledge, then left again onto the face and up a few feet to a tiny right facing corner (pin, can be backed up), then make the devious step left (mental crux) to the base of obvious layback crack. If there is a crowd on Refuse, try not to belly-flop onto the block on the final move--very embarassing. May 22, 2012
Does anyone know what the blonde, left trending corner tucked further above Upper Refuse, beyond the left exit for Final Gesture, starting approximately where the tree belay is? Someone I ran into said this was FG but I checked the Jerry book and it was not listed. It seems 5.8 or 5.9 and has a at least one visible LA in the middle. Looks appealing. Oct 6, 2014
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This route is truly awesome. As Peter Lewis said, the mental crux is this "devious" sequence to gain the buttress below the large boulder at the end. Very exposed and thin, unprotected moves up and left.... wow. Then the burly final moves up to the top of the boulder. Scary and extremely fun! Sep 8, 2015
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
A very memorable lead, and highly recommended as long as you are very comfortable on 5.8 sorta-thin face climbing. This is not protected like Bombardment or Black Lung. There are MANY moments on this route where a fall would be painful and it is not trivial climbing. I'd guess that is probably the #1 reason this climb stays dirty. I kind of loved that about it, and the dirtiness only added to the charm. There are still a few moves to go after gaining the pillar to get up to the tree belay, and you might be happy to have saved a #3 or #4 cam to protect them. Not very difficult moves, but the fall would be horrible. Jun 5, 2016
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Says in the description above how the route got its name...wrong.I named this wee climb Final Gesture as I was leaving the area to work for awhile with the Minnesota Outward Bound School. While there opened up Shovel Point on the shores of Lake Superior. May 7, 2018
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.8
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.8
Sorry for getting the story wrong Paul, funny how local legend can override real history. Thanks for setting it straight. May 11, 2018
Peter Brandon
North Conway, New Hampshire
  5.8
Peter Brandon   North Conway, New Hampshire
  5.8
I steered clear of this route last season given its reputation and finally decided to go for it a few days ago. Glad I did because it was a fun climb and not anywhere close to as terrifying as I was expecting it to be. Someone obviously cleaned this recently, too, because there was no lichen to be found on the route. So thanks to whoever scrubbed it down.

I found the crux to be the "devious step left" once you have to get out of the corner and onto the face above the pin, but I was pleasantly surprised to find that move was relatively well protected by a small mastercam and/or a small nut if you step up onto the highest little platform in the corner. It's not hidden, you'll see it.

No gear until you get to the block but it's pretty straightforward climbing through that section, and while it would suck to fall off the block itself, you have a bunch of options for solid pieces at the base of the block right before you start the short grunty section. Before you know it you're humping your way through the "Final Gesture"!

Putting that beta in there because I assumed this climb was basically R rated given what I had heard about it, and while there isn't a whole lotta gear the pieces I did place seemed solid. Take that for what it's worth I guess. Sep 10, 2018