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Routes in Barber Wall

Arete., The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Dogs T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Deal Rock Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Lung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Book of Solemnity, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicken Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Vee T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dresden T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Final Gesture T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fools Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Graverobber T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Hatful of Hollow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jolt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kim Jung Il T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Layton's Ascent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lichen It a Lot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Medusa T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nomad Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Off the Hook T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perseus T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Reconciliation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Retaliation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Refuse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Webster's Unabridged T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Youth Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: P Ross, A Greene
Page Views: 3,156 total, 24/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 22, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Though a little dirty at times (mostly lichen), this route deserves attention. Compared to fighting the crowds on upper Refuse (5.5), climbing this route is a no-brainer, as long as you are solid in the grade.

After climbing half of the 2nd pitch of Upper Refuse, break left heading up towards an obvious detached block at the top of the cliff. Climb to a fixed pin (you can back it up with a nut), then follow the lichen covered low angle face up and left (can feel a bit spicy) to a crack that will bring you to the block.

Layback then mantel the block (or hump your way over it--that's how the route gets its name) and step left and to the cliff top. Belay from trees.

Location

Break right halfway up Upper Refuse (5.5).

Protection

Fixed pin and trad gear. Protects well with a standard rack to wide hand or fist size.

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
A very memorable lead, and highly recommended as long as you are very comfortable on 5.8 sorta-thin face climbing. This is not protected like Bombardment or Black Lung. There are MANY moments on this route where a fall would be painful and it is not trivial climbing. I'd guess that is probably the #1 reason this climb stays dirty. I kind of loved that about it, and the dirtiness only added to the charm. There are still a few moves to go after gaining the pillar to get up to the tree belay, and you might be happy to have saved a #3 or #4 cam to protect them. Not very difficult moves, but the fall would be horrible. Jun 5, 2016
This route is truly awesome. As Peter Lewis said, the mental crux is this "devious" sequence to gain the buttress below the large boulder at the end. Very exposed and thin, unprotected moves up and left.... wow. Then the burly final moves up to the top of the boulder. Scary and extremely fun! Sep 8, 2015
Does anyone know what the blonde, left trending corner tucked further above Upper Refuse, beyond the left exit for Final Gesture, starting approximately where the tree belay is? Someone I ran into said this was FG but I checked the Jerry book and it was not listed. It seems 5.8 or 5.9 and has a at least one visible LA in the middle. Looks appealing. Oct 6, 2014
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
This is one of those unheralded Cathedral routes that's dead-obvious and obscure at the same time. I mean, it's right there, but it hardly ever gets done. Fifteen feet above the chimney/groove on Upper Refuse, step left on the obvious foot-ledge, then left again onto the face and up a few feet to a tiny right facing corner (pin, can be backed up), then make the devious step left (mental crux) to the base of obvious layback crack. If there is a crowd on Refuse, try not to belly-flop onto the block on the final move--very embarassing. May 22, 2012
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Went back to lead this today after following it years ago. I really enjoy this pitch. A little balancy stepping away from Upper Refuse initially, but REALLY fun! Will definitely head out this to avoid traffic in the future. :D

Bombardment > Black Lung > Final Gesture = 5.8Fun! May 13, 2012
Annaconda
Seattle, WA
 
Annaconda   Seattle, WA
 
For a "5.8 Awkward" outing, do Funhouse Left to Black Lung to this. The final, um, "mantle" is so awesome ... can't believe this doesn't get climbed more!! Aug 7, 2010
apross  
A good one to link with Black Lung. May 5, 2010
losbill  
Lee --- Thanks. Twice in the past I have looked left as I approached the tree ledge and not been sure where the line was. Based on your comment, it appears the last time I was actually at the start but felt I was too far up the ramp. I will give it a go next time I'm up there. Jan 10, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
haha sorry paul i was always told that the mantel was the gesture :) funny how your history can get changed... it is good to have you on the sight to give us some history on the amazing climbs you put up! Jan 10, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
after those 2 routes join climb upper refuse for about 30-40 feet to the spot where you start heading up to the tree ledge belay, instead break left and trend up and left toward the obvious block... it is a little tricky to find the spot which is one reason why this fun moderate sees so little traffic... Jan 10, 2010
losbill  
Paul/Lee --- Where is the start to FG in relation to the point where Black Lung joins Upper Refuse? Thanks Jan 10, 2010