Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Barber Wall

Arete., The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bad Dogs T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Big Deal Rock Climb T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Lung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Book of Solemnity, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicken Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Vee T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dresden T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Final Gesture T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Fools Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Graverobber T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Hatful of Hollow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jolt T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kim Jung Il T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Layton's Ascent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Delight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lichen It a Lot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Medusa T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nomad Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nutcracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Off the Hook T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Perseus T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Reconciliation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Retaliation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Upper Refuse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Webster's Unabridged T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Youth Challenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: B Delany, J Pheasant 1976
Page Views: 1,702 total, 16/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 15, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Lichen It a Lot is another great crack climb on the Barber Wall. Only 30ft of the climb is different from Lichen Delight (5.11a), but this finish gives it a totally different feel over all. Though the grade is a bit lower I don't see one easier than the other.

Climb the awkward corner hand crack of Lichen Delight to a nice resting stance below a roof. While Lichen Delight goes out right at the roof, Lichen It a Lot goes out left and makes a few hard moves in to a small, left facing, bottomless corner with a very thin crack in it. Getting in to the corner is hard, but there is good pro and once established in the corner there are decent finger locks to the top. Move right and belay from gear or a large pine tree. Rap from the tree with one 60m rope (tie knots in the end).

Location

Start on Lichen Delight, this is the left facing corner with a sweet hand crack starting from a ledge in the middle of the Barber Wall. At the roof move left and up the corner finger crack.

Protection

Regular rack to #3 maybe extra hands pieces for the first half if you don't like running it out a little on an awkward hand crack.

Photos

- No Photos -
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Nice ! This route has 5 moves of 5.10 and Delight has one move of 11a ? they both should be 10+ Apr 15, 2009