Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Barber Wall

New Hampshire > Cathedral Ledge

Description

The Barber Wall is the upper left wall of Cathedral Ledge, so named for Henry Barber and his extensive collection of first free accents on this section of the cliff. Barber was involved in the freeing of every crack from Nutcracker rightwards to Lichen Delight. All of these are classics and none are light in the grade.

This wall is one the best places to practice crack climbing if you plan to get on the longer more committing crack climbs on the cliff. The skills you learn on these 60 to nearly 200 foot climbs (the cliff gets taller as you head to the right toward Retaliation) can even be well applied to walls like Cannon Cliff or even the big walls of Yosemite. Locals often meet here for after work sessions in the evening so it is possible to meet partners here for some cragging.

Though this area is known for its cracks there are a number of desperate “sport” routes and mixed (bolt/trad) climbs. In the winter, ice covers much of the cliff making for great steep ice climbing.

Getting There

To get there, climb any route on the lower left wall. Or from the top hike south along the edge of the cliff meeting a trail that wraps around to the midway ledge splitting the Lower Left and Barber Wall. You will see nutcracker first as you hike along the ledge and the routes just keep on coming till you reach the upper half of the Prow area at Upper Refuse and the Book of Solemnity. You can also find the top of Double Vee and rap in.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 14
Dresden
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 144
Nutcracker
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
Jolt
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 83
Double Vee
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 12
Off the Hook
Trad, Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 137
Chicken Delight
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 70
Layton's Ascent
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 1
Big Deal Rock Climb
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 45
Nomad Crack
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 4
Graverobber
Trad, TR
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 2
Kim Jung Il
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Lichen It a Lot
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 53
Lichen Delight
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 1
Reconciliation
Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
 1
Perseus
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 1
Medusa
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 1
Hatful of Hollow
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 89
Retaliation
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
Youth Challenge
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
The Arete.
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Black Crack
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 282
Upper Refuse
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 166
Black Lung
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 28
Final Gesture
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 170
The Book of Solemnity
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 4
Webster's Unabridged
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 2
Fools Gold
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
Bad Dogs
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Book of Solemnibeast (variation…
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dresden
 14
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Nutcracker
 144
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Jolt
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Double Vee
 83
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Off the Hook
 12
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Chicken Delight
 137
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Layton's Ascent
 70
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Big Deal Rock Climb
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
Nomad Crack
 45
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Graverobber
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad, TR
Kim Jung Il
 2
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Lichen It a Lot
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Lichen Delight
 53
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Reconciliation
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad
Perseus
 1
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 Trad
Medusa
 1
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Hatful of Hollow
 1
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Retaliation
 89
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Youth Challenge
 13
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
The Arete.
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Black Crack
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Upper Refuse
 282
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Black Lung
 166
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Final Gesture
 28
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
The Book of Solemnity
 170
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Webster's Unabridged
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Fools Gold
 2
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Bad Dogs
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad
Book of Solemnibeast (varia…
 5
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Henry Barber on Nutcracker, 2001.
[Hide Photo] Henry Barber on Nutcracker, 2001.
Greg Jackson on the great 'Nut Cracker', Barber Wall.<br>
<br>
(scan)
[Hide Photo] Greg Jackson on the great 'Nut Cracker', Barber Wall. (scan)
Derrr is this the Barber wall ?
[Hide Photo] Derrr is this the Barber wall ?
Henry Barber racking up, 2001, during filming of Uncommon Ground.
[Hide Photo] Henry Barber racking up, 2001, during filming of Uncommon Ground.
Barber wall
[Hide Photo] Barber wall
 Alpha Corner ? Pic 1973?
[Hide Photo] Alpha Corner ? Pic 1973?
Alex on the clissic Black Lung 5.8...
[Hide Photo] Alex on the clissic Black Lung 5.8...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
[Hide Comment] This wall is absolutely beautiful. It's got this black, dark, steep vibe... and is quite secluded by Cathedral standards..... You can rap down and then there's this great giant flat ledge beneath the climbs

So many great NH cracks and pods (and a little of my finger blood) Sep 22, 2015