Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall

Asahi T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don'’t Panic It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mighty Mouse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dihedral T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Shiva's Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Stigmata T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Elevation: 7,431 ft
GPS: 39.92, -105.285 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 33,145 total, 161/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

The rock at Mickey is clandestine in a sense. It sees very little traffic since the approach is so long, but the area gives an almost "mystical" aura, to quote my friend Dave Simmons.

There are some great routes here up to 4 pitches long. The greatest majority of the routes are traditionally protected, although the most difficulty are mostly bolt protected. The grading of the routes is starkly grounded. Approaches tend to have poison ivy in way more places than you would like.

The shortened season and the longer approach make the climbing here that much more precious.

There is now legal approaches, thanks to the hard efforts of the climbing community.
Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details
Private Property issues Details

Getting There

Complicated! Print this out!

To reach Mickey Mouse Wall, take the road to Eldo and turn left on County Road 67 (paved) right before the town. Go about 300 yards to a locked gate. Park here.

Hike up the same road to the south, then to the north, then back south. At 1/2 mile there is another dirt road to the left. Pass this to the right, turn back to the north and pass through a major rock cut. Here the road turns south; when it turns back north, you will be in a small drainage filled with trees.

Hike up this drainage for ~200 yards up a very indistinct trail. Find an old road and follow it for a few hundred yards until it intersects a larger dirt road. Find a good trail at this intersection and hike up through open forest and a grassy meadow.

Crest a small ridge and you will find a fork. The left goes downhill and to the southeast. Take the right fork uphill to the southwest. Follow this trail to the railroad tracks.

At the tracks, turn left and go through tunnel 6 (there will be a "T6" sign). Listen for trains first, be careful, and go fast!

Eds. there is also a trail that goes around Tunnel 6. It gains 150-200 vertical feet, but it is legal.

The wall is immediately on the other side of the tunnel. There is a very poor trail right under the wall, and big talus (preferable) a little to the left. Hike up to your route.

Per Byron Murray:

New hiking trails in the area therefore updating directions:

To reach Mickey Mouse Wall, take the road to Eldo and turn left on County Road 67 (paved) right before the town. Go about 300 yards to a locked gate. Park here.



Hike up the maintained gravel road, avoiding a left after about 0.5 mile, and continue through a rock cut. Continue hiking up the road aka "Fowler Trail" avoiding a few single track trails heading off to the right. Continue hiking up the road avoiding roads that go off to the right up to the Conda Quarry. At an intersection with a road and a gate on the right continue straight onto a double track for about 100 feet and then take a right onto a single track.



Continue on the single track avoiding a left single track aka "Goshawk Ridge Trail" all the way to the train tracks.



At the tracks, turn left and go through tunnel 6 (there will be a "T6" sign). Listen for trains first, be careful, and go fast!



The wall is immediately on the other side of the tunnel. There is a very poor trail right under the wall, and big talus (preferable) a little to the left. Hike up to your route.

33 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Mickey Mouse Wall Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Mickey Mouse Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Dihedral
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Culp's Fault
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Perversion
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
The Offset
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Parallel Journey
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Asahi
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Captain Beyond
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Simian's Way
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lifestream
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beagle's Ear
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Perilous Journey
TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Vergin' on Perversion
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mighty Mouse
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zambezi
Trad 2 pitches
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Red Dihedral
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Green Dihedral 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Culp's Fault 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Perversion 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
The Offset 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Parallel Journey 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Asahi 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Captain Beyond 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
Simian's Way 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Lifestream 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Beagle's Ear 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Perilous Journey 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X TR
Vergin' on Perversion 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Mighty Mouse 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Zambezi 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
Red Dihedral 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Mickey Mouse Wall »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Some train/tunnel beta from an October weekday:

We saw an Amtrak train around 9am. From that time until around 530-6pm, we saw one other train. Sometime between 530-6pm, as we were descending from the crag down to the tracks, a southbound coal train appeared out of tunnel six and cleared the tunnel maybe three minutes before we started walking the tracks, northbound into tunnel six. We figured there would not be another train for the foreseeable future, so we walked the tunnel with less trepidation/urgency than usual. (I've been in one of the other tunnels when a train appeared.) Less than five minutes after we exited the tunnel a southbound Amtrak entered the tunnel, moving fairly quickly and disturbingly quietly. Oct 17, 2017
Does anyone have the beta on the aid route Rene? I heard that it can be done cleanly now. Feb 3, 2017
David Tennant
Denver, CO
David Tennant   Denver, CO
I created a Google My Maps for the directions to the wall, so if you really wanted, you could follow yourself on your smartphone as you hike to the wall.

google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=… Apr 23, 2015
fossana
leeds, ut
fossana   leeds, ut
We came in from the trail behind Eldo post yesterday and found the MP directions to be very confusing.

Amended instructions:

Get onto Fowler trail^. Take Fowler to the Goshawk Ridge trail intersection. Continue onto Goshawk. Just past where it turns from gravel road to dirt singletrack, go right on the signed climber's trail. Take the trail to the railroad tracks. Select a way to get past the railroad tunnel. After the tunnel, look on the right side of the tracks for a faint trail that dips down briefly then skirts the base of Mickey Mouse Wall.

^ Options to access Fowler: Road 67, one of the Eldo town cut-offs, or from behind the Bastille. The Bastille way is the most straightforward if you're coming from the town of Eldo. Oct 24, 2012
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
What is the story with access to Mickey Mouse Wall?

According to the description posted on MP:
"At an intersection with a road and a gate on the right continue straight onto a double track for about 100 feet and then take a right onto a single track."

We hiked up that way and at the single track, there is a sign that says "climber access trail only, dead end"
Further up the trail, just before you get to the railroad tracks, there is another large sign saying "Raptor Nesting Closure. Area behind this sign is closed between February 1 and July 31."

We hiked past that and then did not go through the tunnel, but rather used the trail around it, thinking it would be safer. When we got out on the other side of the tunnel, we were about 15 feet from the railroad tracks and there was another raptor closure sign. At this point, a rail road worker saw us and started yelling, being quite rude, and threatening to call the railroad police.

We had not yet stepped on the railroad tracks (there was a train stopped through the tunnel). We had just passed a raptor closure sign, and I'm not sure what laws apply. The sign, by saying the area is closed between Feb-July, implies the area to be open the rest of the year.

So, what is the story? Can the railroad really have you arrested? I can maybe see it is illegal to cross the tracks or run through the tunnel (we went around it), but this rude guy was being a jerk and telling me all the area around was railroad property, including the hillside we just came up which had several Boulder Open Space signs on it, so I think he was just being full of shit and threatening us.... Sep 2, 2010
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
The no parking signs were for one side of the road, when I was there a few weeks ago. You can park on the left side of the road as you approach the locked gate. Nov 21, 2008
Randy Carmichael
Boulder, CO
Randy Carmichael   Boulder, CO
When I tried to park at the County Road 67 locked gate, there were no parking signs posted. Has this changed? Nov 21, 2008
New hiking trails in the area therefore updating directions:

To reach Mickey Mouse Wall, take the road to Eldo and turn left on County Road 67 (paved) right before the town. Go about 300 yards to a locked gate. Park here.

Hike up the maintained gravel road, avoiding a left after about 0.5 mile, and continue through a rock cut. Continue hiking up the road aka "Fowler Trail" avoiding a few single track trails heading off to the right. Continue hiking up the road avoiding roads that go off to the right up to the Conda Quarry. At an intersection with a road and a gate on the right continue straight onto a double track for about 100 feet and then take a right onto a single track. Continue on the single track avoiding a left single track aka "Goshawk Ridge Trail" all the way to the train tracks.

At the tracks, turn left and go through tunnel 6 (there will be a "T6" sign). Listen for trains first, be careful, and go fast!

The wall is immediately on the other side of the tunnel. There is a very poor trail right under the wall, and big talus (preferable) a little to the left. Hike up to your route. Oct 18, 2008
kevin murphy
Lafayette, Colorado
kevin murphy   Lafayette, Colorado
My bad, the long seam left of "Perversion" is 11c S. Zermonion or something. Very cool looking line. Sep 17, 2008
kevin murphy
Lafayette, Colorado
kevin murphy   Lafayette, Colorado
Does anyone know the history of the route that veers off of "Capt. Beyond's" first pitch, cuts left, ring bolt, pins???? also the SICK looking thin crack left of Perversion, 100+ ft. couple fixed RPs. Sep 15, 2008
Danny Inman
Arvada
Danny Inman   Arvada
Rap route between the central and south towers is in good shape. Did it yesterday, and there is new webbing dated Sept 2006. Sep 25, 2006
Clint Locks
Boulder
Clint Locks   Boulder
Another approach alternative:
From the book:
"From Hwy 170, turn left at the paved road and continue up to a locked gate. Hike on the road..."

our version, continued:
...then make a bad decision, bearing left on said road instead of right, necessitating a bushwhack (read: "hacking through bushes") up over the ridge. Trend south, slightly descending into the valley, and attempt to take a faint game trail which ends up going through a fence that would take you onto posted private property. Alternatively, continue steep bushwhack up to railroad tracks, negotiating veritable lakes of poison ivy and forests of young willows along the way, finally arriving 75 feet above the train bridge. Descend the 75 feet and cross the tracks. Negotiate more poison ivy and climb the loose talus and boulder field. It is now 10:30 a.m. 'Perversion' is still a ways up. Do not be daunted. It's worth the effort. Should've taken a right at the fork in the road." Aug 18, 2006
Tod Anderson refered to "the Mickey Mouse closure" under the "Ridge I" page. Does that mean that the proposal was accepted? Is Mickey Mouse Wall legally open at this point? Nov 26, 2005
If in their great wisdom the City of Boulder closes MMW to the few rockclimbers that venture up there each month I'll file with the OSMP a "notification to kiss my Ass..." Dec 25, 2004
Umm, help. Mickey Mouse Wall will soon be closed. Permanently.

It is owned by Boulder. Under the proposed new OSMP Visitor Plan, a number of local crags will be shut down forever. Mickey Mouse is the largest. Others include Continental Crag (up above Peanuts), Upper Peanuts Wall, The Sacred Cliffs.

Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks have presented this proposal to Boulder City Council. Boulder City Council will discuss this on Tuesday 14th December.

Please phone or email the Boulder City Council Members (who love to hear from people about issues like this) that this is unacceptable.

Show up this Tuesday, Dec 14th at 6:00pm at Council Chambers (Broadway and Canyon). Bring a friend, or two, or eight. Let's pack the room.

More details are at:

keep-open-space-open.org/

Details of the folks who will decide on this issue are at:

ci.boulder.co.us/cmo/cityco…

They are:

Robin Bohannan 303-524-9067 11/18/03 11/072814 15th Street; 80304 720-938-5215bohannanr@ci.boulder.co.usbohannan@indra.comThomas Eldridge 303-449-8419 303-443-3336 02/18/97 11/051301 Canyon Blvd. #406; 80302 303-443-3336 (fax)eldridget@ci.boulder.co.usCrystal Gray 303-449-9680 11/18/03 11/071709 Spruce Street; 80302grayc@ci.boulder.co.uscrystal_boulder@hotmail.comShaun McGrath 720-304-2165 11/18/03 11/05225 29th Street; 80305mcgraths@ci.boulder.co.uss.l.mcgrath@att.netGordon Riggle 303-530-7181 11/18/97 11/055225 Pinehurst Dr.; 80301riggleg@ci.boulder.co.usMark Ruzzin 303-417-9798 11/20/01 11/073135 5th St.; 80304ruzzinm@ci.boulder.co.usmruzin@swenergy.orgAndy Schultheiss 303-440-3321 11/18/03 11/053370 25th Street; 80304schultheissa@ci.boulder.co.usJack Stoakes 303-449-3374 303-449-3374 11/18/03 11/072727 Folsom St., #110; 80304stoakesj@ci.boulder.co.usWilliam R. Toor 303-544-0104 11/18/97 11/053032 10th St.; 80304toorw@ci.boulder.co.us Email, phone or write. Do all three. Dec 12, 2004
Carissa Aoki
Fort Collins, CO
Carissa Aoki   Fort Collins, CO
Yes, poison ivy is rampant as of this past weekend. Also, just a note about the trains. The freight trains are okay, because they honk their horns a lot, are pretty noisy, and don't go very fast. The Amtrak trains, on the other hand, don't honk at all, are seemingly silent, and go very fast! We did the approach via the 4 tunnels from Plainview Road. It was easy to avoid the freight trains, but we practically got run over by an Amtrak that we didn't hear coming until it was practically on top of us. (We were in a short tunnel, and didn't hear it when we entered the tunnel - by the time we were running to exit the tunnel, the train was already right behind us.)

But, that said, how great to climb on such wonderful rock on a sunny Sunday with no crowds! Aug 30, 2004
Hey Dave, How was the poison ivy out there? Haven't been up there this summer, but last summer it was head high, must even be worse now...or has it started to die back? Russ Holcomb Aug 16, 2004
Greaser  
....Anyone climb at the West Bank anymore? Great stuff. It is just south of Micky Mouse.

Oh [yeah], no matter how you go to Mickey [Mouse], you have to get close to the tracks. [Locomotive] Breath is right on the tracks... Nov 18, 2003
FYI - we approached from [Plainview] and got stuck waiting for a train that was waiting on another train...while waiting, we chatted with one of the conductors who suggested we be very careful to not get caught. Apparently not only do you get ticketed now , but since 9/11 you will probably be charged with 'threat to homeland security (Amtrak uses those lines and it has something to do with public transportation, etc...)' Nov 18, 2003
We approched via the tracks yesterday with no problem. The only downside is you can't hear the trains from very far away and some of those tunnels are pretty narrow!!! Oct 24, 2003
clint dillard
Louisville, Co
clint dillard   Louisville, Co
We wanted to walk in on the tracks today, but there are still a lot of work crews up there and train supervisor types hanging around. I don't know if that approach will be an option for while. Oct 9, 2003
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
Yes AC, the tracks were being repaired earlier this year making access from the south more cumbersome. The work is done and the raptor closure is over!! Sep 27, 2003
Is it ok again to approach [Mickey Mouse] along the tracks from the south? We approached from the parking area outside of [Eldo] (past the yoga studio) and man! That was a long hike (yes, I am a wimp). We had heard that hiking along the tracks from the south was now considered a Very Bad thing to do. Is this true? Thanks... Sep 21, 2003
The trail along the base of the cliff is covered in THICK Poison Ivy right now. Way worse than I've ever seen in the Black Canyon. Best to approach via the boulderfield that parallels the cliff. Aug 1, 2003
Casey Bernal
Arvada, CO
Casey Bernal   Arvada, CO
My partner and I replaced the topmost slings on the rap route. I have the old ones in a plastic grocery bag that is nearly stuffed full. We did not replace the second rap anchor (only needed if you have one rope - just swing right) which definitely needs it but we were out of webbing.

From the amount of slings, ropes, and shite that we pulled down it is safe to guess that this has not been done for a while. It would make much more sense to put in a couple of rap bolts because they are certainly less noticable and safer than the clump of webbing we replaced. I guess that is the way it has to be since the Flatiron Bolting Ban ... they should change it to create a committee like the rest of Eldo.

casey bernal Jan 8, 2003
As of 10/20/02 the rap stations are in excellent shape. One two rope rap from several new looking slings with rap rings to a shorter (one rope fine) rap off a huge tree on a ledge with more good looking slings. Walk off to the left (as you look at the wall). Oct 22, 2002
Gary Hann
Coal Creek Canyon,Colorado
Gary Hann   Coal Creek Canyon,Colorado
The standard rap route on this rock is in bad shape. Rotten sling nests at the raps that are still there. The second rap is completely missing. You will end up about 25 feet short of the third rap with a standard 50m rope. Needs many long slings for repair. Take a long rope or plan to spend some extra time rigging an anchor to belay down to the third rap. This was the condition on 26 Aug 01. Sep 13, 2001

More About Mickey Mouse Wall

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New
Fixed Hardware Report (9)

All Photos Within Mickey Mouse Wall (153)

Most Popular · Newest