Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Rossiter and Sciolino
Page Views: 4,604 total · 18/month
Shared By: Edward Jenner on Oct 3, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

34 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Private Property issues DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Permit require to access? Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through Aug. 12? - each year DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Getting there: Follow the trail to the north end of Mickey Mouse wall past the large block, from which Perversion starts. Just past this block is a low-angle left-facing dihedral below the groove between the 'Mouse Ears' which is also the standard rappel route. Climb the dihedral past a tree to a large ledge. The dihedral is 5.5 and looks a bit easier than it is. I would suggest roping up, even if you only place 2 pieces for this section.

P1: From the ledge at the top of the dihedral follow the right of two cracks 6 feet apart. The crack continues through some .7, .8, and .9(+) moves through a bulge and finally to a rest stance. Some of the sections look like they are going to be much harder than 5.9 and may tempt you into the crack on the left. I did not use the crack on the left at all since another party was climbing it, but is certainly looked tempting in some spots and may make a few moves easier. The pitch is about 130+ feet, quite sustained, had some tricky small pro and felt harder than many 5.9s in Eldo and much harder than Perversion. For this reason I give it 9+.

P2: Scramble up to a slab with a finger crack, below a bulge leading to the notch between the 'Mouse Ears' towers. Delicately climb the slab, then power over the bulge on decent but awkward hands. Although we did this as two pitches because of other parties on the wall, I would recommend doing one long pitch. The first pitch is quite long anyway [30 feet].

Protection Suggest change

Rack up to #3.5 Friend. Lots of smaller pieces. I used 6 TCUs and Aliens and would probably have placed a few RPs as well if I'd had them.