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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall

Asahi T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don'’t Panic It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mighty Mouse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dihedral T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Shiva's Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Stigmata T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rossiter and Sciolino
Page Views: 3,345 total, 19/month
Shared By: Edward Jenner on Oct 3, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details
Private Property issues Details

Description

Getting there: Follow the trail to the north end of Mickey Mouse wall past the large block, from which Perversion starts. Just past this block is a low-angle left-facing dihedral below the groove between the 'Mouse Ears' which is also the standard rappel route. Climb the dihedral past a tree to a large ledge. The dihedral is 5.5 and looks a bit easier than it is. I would suggest roping up, even if you only place 2 pieces for this section.

P1: From the ledge at the top of the dihedral follow the right of two cracks 6 feet apart. The crack continues through some .7, .8, and .9(+) moves through a bulge and finally to a rest stance. Some of the sections look like they are going to be much harder than 5.9 and may tempt you into the crack on the left. I did not use the crack on the left at all since another party was climbing it, but is certainly looked tempting in some spots and may make a few moves easier. The pitch is about 130+ feet, quite sustained, had some tricky small pro and felt harder than many 5.9s in Eldo and much harder than Perversion. For this reason I give it 9+.

P2: Scramble up to a slab with a finger crack, below a bulge leading to the notch between the 'Mouse Ears' towers. Delicately climb the slab, then power over the bulge on decent but awkward hands. Although we did this as two pitches because of other parties on the wall, I would recommend doing one long pitch. The first pitch is quite long anyway [30 feet].

Protection

Rack up to #3.5 Friend. Lots of smaller pieces. I used 6 TCUs and Aliens and would probably have placed a few RPs as well if I'd had them.
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Stay with the right crack as it is well-protected and fun. Expect a long pitch with good gear, excellent position, good exposure, and thought provoking moves. The gear is good where it needs to be (I placed nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot). Nov 4, 2007
Clint Locks
Boulder
  5.9+
Clint Locks   Boulder
  5.9+
P2 and 3 have become two of my favorite .9(+?) pitches in the Eldo area! Great fun! P1, however...Don't bother. Start with Perversion and traverse over. You'll be glad you did. Sep 3, 2007
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Very nice middle pitch with interesting cruxes & good pro & good rests. Agree that 1st pitch detracts from the quality, P1 of Perversion is probably better. You can do it only moving out of the crack at the big flake mid pitch & keep it 9. Save a #2 or 2.5 Friend for the last crux on middle pitch. Also, bummed that I left an old style #4 Camalot at/near the base today :( Sep 7, 2005
shad O'Neel  
5.9
Combined with the first pitch of [Perversion], this makes a great route. I felt this pitch was more sustained than P1 of [Perversion], but the moves were maybe less technical. Who knows? Good fun and good gear. Thoughtful. Jan 17, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This route is a bit confusing because as you say you can make it easier by using the left crack. It felt contrived to me to stick exclusively to the right crack. If you use both cracks and take the easiest line it felt 5.9, and in most places easier. Oct 6, 2003
I should add that my P1 is P2 in the photo and the P1 in the photo is the 5.5 dihedral, just in case anyone was confused. Oct 6, 2003