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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall
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Asahi T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Astral Traveller T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Culp's Fault T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Matter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't Panic, It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Mighty Mouse S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Monks in the Gym T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red Arete, The S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Red Dihedral T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Shiva's Dance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Stigmata T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Turnabout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Rossiter and Sciolino |
| Page Views: | 4,649 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Edward Jenner on Oct 3, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Access Issue: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year
Details
Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click here bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Description
Getting there: Follow the trail to the north end of Mickey Mouse wall past the large block, from which Perversion starts. Just past this block is a low-angle left-facing dihedral below the groove between the 'Mouse Ears' which is also the standard rappel route. Climb the dihedral past a tree to a large ledge. The dihedral is 5.5 and looks a bit easier than it is. I would suggest roping up, even if you only place 2 pieces for this section.
P1: From the ledge at the top of the dihedral follow the right of two cracks 6 feet apart. The crack continues through some .7, .8, and .9(+) moves through a bulge and finally to a rest stance. Some of the sections look like they are going to be much harder than 5.9 and may tempt you into the crack on the left. I did not use the crack on the left at all since another party was climbing it, but is certainly looked tempting in some spots and may make a few moves easier. The pitch is about 130+ feet, quite sustained, had some tricky small pro and felt harder than many 5.9s in Eldo and much harder than Perversion. For this reason I give it 9+.
P2: Scramble up to a slab with a finger crack, below a bulge leading to the notch between the 'Mouse Ears' towers. Delicately climb the slab, then power over the bulge on decent but awkward hands. Although we did this as two pitches because of other parties on the wall, I would recommend doing one long pitch. The first pitch is quite long anyway [30 feet].
P1: From the ledge at the top of the dihedral follow the right of two cracks 6 feet apart. The crack continues through some .7, .8, and .9(+) moves through a bulge and finally to a rest stance. Some of the sections look like they are going to be much harder than 5.9 and may tempt you into the crack on the left. I did not use the crack on the left at all since another party was climbing it, but is certainly looked tempting in some spots and may make a few moves easier. The pitch is about 130+ feet, quite sustained, had some tricky small pro and felt harder than many 5.9s in Eldo and much harder than Perversion. For this reason I give it 9+.
P2: Scramble up to a slab with a finger crack, below a bulge leading to the notch between the 'Mouse Ears' towers. Delicately climb the slab, then power over the bulge on decent but awkward hands. Although we did this as two pitches because of other parties on the wall, I would recommend doing one long pitch. The first pitch is quite long anyway [30 feet].
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