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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall

Asahi T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don'’t Panic It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mighty Mouse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dihedral T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Shiva's Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Stigmata T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FFA Steve Wunsch, et al.
Page Views: 1,508 total, 8/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Oct 19, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details
Private Property issues Details

Description

Begin about 50 feet uphill from the obvious Green Dihedral below the first pitch splitter finger crack. With a 60m rope, you can probably do this in two pitches if you set the first belay fairly high.

P1. Climb a steep, juggy face for about 15 feet. Climb around a short flake and onto a good stance at the base of an awesome looking finger crack. Climb the crack with great gear and even better jams. Stop at the fixed slings if only doing this pitch (now bolted anchor). If continuing on, make a rising traverse left into a right-facing dihedral, and belay below a steep, broken section directly below the offwidth. This is a definite 3-star pitch, 5.9+.

P2. Climb through a steep, chossy section with great holds so long as they stay put. Pull over a deceptively tricky bulge, and crawl on in the slightly overhung, flaring crack. When I did this, there was a fixed hex + nut equalized with some rap rings at the crux bulge of the offwidth. The crux may be in manuvering around these pieces, but they do give peace of mind. After the bulge, the crack pinches down from flaring offwidth to flaring fingertips. Bring a purple Metolius. Pull one final bulge with some more trickery, and continue up much easier ground (some 5.8, lots of bird shit) until reaching a suitable belay stance. I stopped about 40 feet shy of scrambling at the top, 5.11a.

P3. Climb a short pitch up a right-facing dihedral, and trend up and left towards the saddle once on easy ground, 5.8.

To descend, scramble around the back of the tower towards the fixed rap stations. Route finding is a little tricky. By staying low, we found a rap station off of a questionable tree that led to a walkable gully below the fixed stations.

Protection

Up to a #3.5 Camalot for the offwidth and an optional #4 below it. There are fixed anchors on top of the stellar first pitch.
Andrew McLean
Colorado
  5.11a
Andrew McLean   Colorado
  5.11a
Link 1+2 to belay 20ft below the offwidth (60m rope). I thought the flaring squeeze was mega burly. Very intense pitch with some big exposure to boot, and that was following it! Oct 30, 2017
claytown
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
P1 now has awesome bolted anchors with rings, if you're just gonna do P1. Kevin, I believe the start is direct. We found some edges, huecos, and flakes, and it was cruiser. Oct 8, 2016
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
 
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
 
First pitch is not to be missed, great pitch.

Does anybody know the actual start, is it direct or traverse in from the left? Aug 23, 2011
Fun route. Pitches 1,3 and four are good. Pitch two is whatever. There was a fixed piece at the crux when I did this, which I backed up with a #4 Camalot. After that you'll be psyched to have a good selection of Aliens or small TCUs. More face climbing than thrutching. Although, I sure did a bit of thrutching. Aug 18, 2004
The 5.9+ first pitch is quite good and well worth doing by itself. Take extra nuts and cams in the fingertips to fingers range.

You can get down from the first pitch with one rope, either from a slightly scary mess of slings threaded at the bottom of a huge detached flake (this can be backed up with gear for the belay), or it is possible to traverse over to the anchors for the bolted climbs to the left. Oct 28, 2003
Awesome route. The fixed slings at top of P1 are an eyesore. Oct 28, 2002