Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Layton Kor, Bob Culp, George Hurley and others, 1963
Page Views: 14,338 total · 62/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details
Access Issue: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year Details

Description

Possibly one of the all time classic routes of its grade, Perversion fires up the central tower in three pitches of glorious climbing on some of the best rock in the Front Range. Below the central tower is a large block - climb up left on talus around the block and then over to the right side for a cozy belay that looks up a system of left facing dihedrals all the way to the top.

P1. Start off on the right side of the block in a rough finger and hand crack. This is largely 5.7/5.8 until just before the next ledge where the line kicks up a bit of 5.9 on very good gear. Get to the ledge and move right 15 feet to the base of the dihedral. 75 feet, 5.9.

P2. At the ledge (with a tree), scramble right to a point below the shallow dihedral. Fire up the left dihedral with 2 fabulous cracks for 25 feet. Traverse to the right on large blocks about 10 feet to another dihedral with a good crack. Cruise up this crack and then continue over broken rock with good pro to a nice belay ledge. There are two large bolts about 10 feet right of the crack. 150 feet, 5.8.

P3. Continue up fabulous climbing in the corner with solid 5.8 move separated by many excellent rests. Head for the monstrous roof and swing out right on jug-o-rama holds with bomb-proof gear in the corner at 5.6. 120 feet, 5.8.

Descent: downclimb to the left (east & north towards trees) then back (west) to the large notch (skip the first, smaller notch). Make an 80 foot rap to slings, then a 60 foot rap to a large tree, then a final (third) rap 60 feet right to the base of the climb.

Per Carl Schaefer: alternatively you can rappel hard right to reach another bolted anchor. From there, rappel down to the top of P1 and a tree with cord and a quicklink (check the cord!), and rappel once more down to the base of the route.

The original descent info mentioned slings for the 2nd rap, which is now bolts, but they'll be an awkward traverse away if you rap straight down from the top, hence the suggestion to veer to the right.

Protection

Bring a full rack and a 60 m rope.

Photos