Avg: 3.5 from 185 votes
Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
|FA:||Layton Kor, Bob Culp, George Hurley and others, 1963|
|Page Views:||14,338 total · 62/month|
|Shared By:||Richard M. Wright on Jun 26, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
P1. Start off on the right side of the block in a rough finger and hand crack. This is largely 5.7/5.8 until just before the next ledge where the line kicks up a bit of 5.9 on very good gear. Get to the ledge and move right 15 feet to the base of the dihedral. 75 feet, 5.9.
P2. At the ledge (with a tree), scramble right to a point below the shallow dihedral. Fire up the left dihedral with 2 fabulous cracks for 25 feet. Traverse to the right on large blocks about 10 feet to another dihedral with a good crack. Cruise up this crack and then continue over broken rock with good pro to a nice belay ledge. There are two large bolts about 10 feet right of the crack. 150 feet, 5.8.
P3. Continue up fabulous climbing in the corner with solid 5.8 move separated by many excellent rests. Head for the monstrous roof and swing out right on jug-o-rama holds with bomb-proof gear in the corner at 5.6. 120 feet, 5.8.
Descent: downclimb to the left (east & north towards trees) then back (west) to the large notch (skip the first, smaller notch). Make an 80 foot rap to slings, then a 60 foot rap to a large tree, then a final (third) rap 60 feet right to the base of the climb.
Per Carl Schaefer: alternatively you can rappel hard right to reach another bolted anchor. From there, rappel down to the top of P1 and a tree with cord and a quicklink (check the cord!), and rappel once more down to the base of the route.
The original descent info mentioned slings for the 2nd rap, which is now bolts, but they'll be an awkward traverse away if you rap straight down from the top, hence the suggestion to veer to the right.