All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Mountain > Mickey Mouse Wall

Red Dihedral

Name: Red Dihedral
Rating: 3.5

5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British R

Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Asahi T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Astral Traveller T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Culp's Fault T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dark Matter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Don't Panic, It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
	Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Mighty Mouse S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Monks in the Gym T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
	Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Red Arete, The S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
	Red Dihedral T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
	Shiva's Dance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Stigmata T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Turnabout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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Type:	Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II Fixed Hardware (1)
GPS:	39.91728, -105.28551
FA:	Layton Kor, Mayrose, Larry Dalke, 1964. FFA: Christian Griffith, Eric Doub, 1985
Page Views:	6,514 total · 31/month
Shared By:	bhoran Horan on Jan 2, 2009
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details

The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.

Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.

Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.

Access Issue: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year Details

Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click here bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.

Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:

bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…

Description

The dihedral is done in two 5.12 pitches with the crux being the first section at 5.12d envolving thin face and stem climbing with fixed pins, stoppers and bolts.

Location

Climb to ledge system below large red tinted dihedral above Perilous Journey et al. Follow crack system left of Perilous Journey to bolt line or climb bolt route right of Perilous Journey to the ledge system below the prized dihedral. The dihedral is done in two 5.12 pitches with the crux being the first section at 5.12d involving thin face and stem climbing with fixed pins, stoppers and bolts. The second section of the corner involves climbing out left under the roof via thin face climbing with marginal protection, finishing with a headwall crack.

Protection

A small stopper, pins, and bolts.

Per Gabriel Kerbs: a single set of cams from micro to #3 (extra tips and fingers your first time up isn’t a bad idea); offset brassies and a few medium wires. A 0.1/0.2 offset cam & gold ballnut can be useful. Bring lots of draws and runners and an 80m rope.