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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall

Asahi T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don'’t Panic It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mighty Mouse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dihedral T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Shiva's Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Stigmata T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Layton Kor, Mayrose, Larry Dalke, 1964. FFA: Christian Griffith, Eric Doub, 1985
Page Views: 3,726 total, 34/month
Shared By: bhoran on Jan 2, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details
Private Property issues Details

Description

The dihedral is done in two 5.12 pitches with the crux being the first section at 5.12d envolving thin face and stem climbing with fixed pins, stoppers and bolts.

Location

Climb to ledge system below large red tinted dihedral above Perilous Journey et al. Follow crack system left of Perilous Journey to bolt line or climb bolt route right of Perilous Journey to the ledge system below the prized dihedral. The dihedral is done in two 5.12 pitches with the crux being the first section at 5.12d involving thin face and stem climbing with fixed pins, stoppers and bolts. The second section of the corner involves climbing out left under the roof via thin face climbing with marginal protection, finishing with a headwall crack.

Protection

Small stopper, pins and bolts.
Yo, Skinny Legs, Craig deserves credit for lots of great firsts, but this isn't one of them. I replaced the bolts and was the first to climb the whole thing in one pitch placing all the gear on lead. I broke a big hold on the second pitch during one attempt which does make the second pitch a little harder. Placing the gear on the go and doing it in a single pitch feels a lot like 5.13. May 27, 2014
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Craig Luebben was the first person to link both pitches together for the proper full line. He broke a hold up high on the second pitch roof which made that pitch nearly as difficult as the first. Linking both pitches produces a solid 5.13. Apr 3, 2013
Jesse Huey
  5.13-
Jesse Huey  
  5.13-
As far as striking lines go on the Front Range, this is one of the most dramatic. The climb is almost exactly 40 meters and has 5 cruxes that are all 5.12 when done in one long pitch. Linking the two pitches is really the only way in my opinion, since the "stance" at the anchor is yes a no hands but in a stem that is on you from the start. Having climbed a lot of climbs similar to this style and grade, it is more difficult than you would expect.

Regarding the second pitch, I am certain that a key hold has broken which made me find a lower traverse 10 feet below the first bolt. It is considerably harder than what looks like was the original line at least in that spot. Expect 5.12b for that move and another 5.12a move right at the end. Done as one pitch, it doesn't get any better in Boulder. As of 1/31/13, there is now only one bolt, a single fixed pin, and one fixed nut on the first pitch and 3 bolts on the second pitch. A 70 gets you down, barely, if done in one, but you won't be able to get back into the wall if you lower. Jan 31, 2013