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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall
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Asahi T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Astral Traveller T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Matter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't Panic, It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hamburger Helper T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Mighty Mouse S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Monks in the Gym T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red Arete (aka Myra), The S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Red Dihedral T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Shiva's Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Stigmata T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Ivan Rezucha, Luke Clarke, 9/28/08 |
| Page Views: | 711 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Oct 1, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Access Issue: Permit require to access? Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through Aug. 12? - each year
Details
Per Tony B: according to this recently published map, Micky Mouse Wall is now in an HCA and requires a permit to visit: maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi….
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is projected to be closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click here bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is projected to be closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click here bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.
Description
This is quite a good route. I was surprised, and I really enjoyed it. Mostly clean with little loose rock, although there are some minor thumpers. The climbing is pretty continuous with the crux at the final roof. The gear is good although a little sparse at the bottom. There are surprising gear placements and holds.
Since this is an obvious line, this may have been climbed earlier, although there were no signs of previous passage. I excavated several excellent gear placements at spots where gear was wanted.
See "Location" for the start. Climb a thin crack left of the grungy left facing corner. About 15' up step right and climb just left of the corner. Follow the crack system up past some fun jamming and stemming moves. At the roof, get good gear and then stretch to place the #4 Camalot high and deep. Undercling out right and hope for the best. Get a good directional and walk right to a tree from which you can belay and rappel.
Since this is an obvious line, this may have been climbed earlier, although there were no signs of previous passage. I excavated several excellent gear placements at spots where gear was wanted.
See "Location" for the start. Climb a thin crack left of the grungy left facing corner. About 15' up step right and climb just left of the corner. Follow the crack system up past some fun jamming and stemming moves. At the roof, get good gear and then stretch to place the #4 Camalot high and deep. Undercling out right and hope for the best. Get a good directional and walk right to a tree from which you can belay and rappel.
Location
Walk left up the hill from Eagle's Bier to where the wall gets shorter. There are couple of obvious, left-facing corner. This route is the corner that leads to the roof at the top with the wide crack on its right side. See photo.
To get down, walk right on a ledge just after the roof to a tree. A 70m rope gets you to the ground. A 60m rope might get you to scrambling distance of the ground, but there's another tree mid way you can use. Bring slings and rings.
To get down, walk right on a ledge just after the roof to a tree. A 70m rope gets you to the ground. A 60m rope might get you to scrambling distance of the ground, but there's another tree mid way you can use. Bring slings and rings.
Protection
I used a single set of nuts from small to to big, a single set of micro to finger sized cams and doubles to #3 Camalot. You need a single #4 Camalot that you can place and back clean several times, saving the final placement for the roof at the top. If you are height-challenged you may need a bigger cam for the roof or do without.
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