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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall

Asahi T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don'’t Panic It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mighty Mouse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dihedral T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Shiva's Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Stigmata T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Luke Clarke, 9/28/08
Page Views: 152 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 1, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details
Private Property issues Details

Description

This is quite a good route. I was surprised, and I really enjoyed it. Mostly clean with little loose rock, although there are some minor thumpers. The climbing is pretty continuous with the crux at the final roof. The gear is good although a little sparse at the bottom. There are surprising gear placements and holds.

Since this is an obvious line, this may have been climbed earlier, although there were no signs of previous passage. I excavated several excellent gear placements at spots where gear was wanted.

See "Location" for the start. Climb a thin crack left of the grungy left facing corner. About 15' up step right and climb just left of the corner. Follow the crack system up past some fun jamming and stemming moves. At the roof, get good gear and then stretch to place the #4 Camalot high and deep. Undercling out right and hope for the best. Get a good directional and walk right to a tree from which you can belay and rappel.

Location

Walk left up the hill from Eagle's Bier to where the wall gets shorter. There are couple of obvious, left-facing corner. This route is the corner that leads to the roof at the top with the wide crack on its right side. See photo.

To get down, walk right on a ledge just after the roof to a tree. A 70m rope gets you to the ground. A 60m rope might get you to scrambling distance of the ground, but there's another tree mid way you can use. Bring slings and rings.

Protection

I used a single set of nuts from small to to big, a single set of micro to finger sized cams and doubles to #3 Camalot. You need a single #4 Camalot that you can place and back clean several times, saving the final placement for the roof at the top. If you are height-challenged you may need a bigger cam for the roof or do without.

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