Type: Trad, 260 ft (79 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Japhy Dhungana, Steve Annecone
Page Views: 459 total · 16/month
Shared By: Japhy Dhungana on Jan 12, 2022
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Dark Matter is the diminutive, darker, mysterious bastard child of the classic "space" lines to the left.

Approach this route by either climbing Culp's Fault's P1 (5.8+) or Captain Beyond's P1+P2 (5.10a).

Dark Matter climbs the large left-facing corner with the obvious offwidth crack. The route follows a natural crack that has surprisingly been unclimbed all these years. It leads to the broad saddle between the Middle Tower and South Tower of Mickey Mouse Wall.

Descent options:

  1. Rappel down Culp's Fault. There is currently no tat on the start of this rappel series.
  2. It is also possible to climb easy 5.6 slabs from the saddle, following the path of least resistance for 1 long pitch to the top of the Middle Tower, and down via the standard Mickey Mouse rappels with one 60m rope.

Location Suggest change

This ascends the crack system left of Culp's Fault and right of Astral Traveller.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack plus one or two wide pieces: a #6 Camalot and/or green Big-Bro is more than adequate. Confident offwidth climbers may consider skipping wide gear and running it out, as the crux section is short: three body-lengths or so.

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