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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall

Asahi T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don'’t Panic It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mighty Mouse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dihedral T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Shiva's Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Stigmata T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: T. Leith, 1994
Page Views: 165 total, 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 18, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details
Private Property issues Details

Description

Fluffy bunny? Harmless rabbit? Well, it has HUUUUGE TEETH!

This route was given 10a in the Levin Book, but I and a partner both thought it was quite substantially harder, and it is is harder in such a way and place, and at a runout, so as to be a serious problem on lead. Or perhaps it was just the weather and we were having a bad day.

The climbing is good over all, however, and the route can easily be top-roped from P1 of The Red Dihedral, with a pin to the right of those for a directional.

I spent quite some time trying to convince myself that the small hand holds and rounded pebbly foothold at the crux would hold me on my lead attempt prior to saying it wasn't worth it and backing off for a TR. I am pleased with my judgment on that call, as the crux there lead to an insecure move above, and then another.... from which I fell on TR. I saved myself a rough 30' fall, at least.

Despite the sandbagging, I thought the route was good. In terms of move difficulty and protection, I'd describe it as the 'evil cousin' of the nearby routes 'The Offset' and 'Skink's Lip.'

Location

This route lies just a few meters left of P1 of The Red Dihedral. It starts in a shallow, right-facing corner and then goes onto a sloping ledge to the left above. From there, face climb up and right (perhaps dangerously) into a hanging crack through a bulge just left of the arete. Climb 80' in total to an anchor just to the left of the start of the climb, with a pin just before it as a directional.

Protection

A few bits of gear up 40' to a ledge that leans up and left. Protect in the crack above the ledge, then climb up and right 10-15' into a crack below a tree with strenuous protection available there once established in it (5.10 climbing as well). If you fall before that, you will be spun sideways on a long fall back into a corner below the ledge for a rib and head cracking landing....

Continue above in the 0.5-2" crack to the tree, then up the 5.5 climbing for 20+' above the tree, which is secure and not of much concern. Clip a pin, and step left to the anchors on P1 of The Red Dihedral.

Photos

Agree it was not 10a or even near 10a and was worth doing on second with some fun moves. Oct 19, 2016