Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||T. Leith, 1994|
|Page Views:||427 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Oct 18, 2016|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
This route was given 10a in the Levin Book, but I and a partner both thought it was quite substantially harder, and it is is harder in such a way and place, and at a runout, so as to be a serious problem on lead. Or perhaps it was just the weather and we were having a bad day.
The climbing is good over all, however, and the route can easily be top-roped from P1 of The Red Dihedral, with a pin to the right of those for a directional.
I spent quite some time trying to convince myself that the small hand holds and rounded pebbly foothold at the crux would hold me on my lead attempt prior to saying it wasn't worth it and backing off for a TR. I am pleased with my judgment on that call, as the crux there lead to an insecure move above, and then another.... from which I fell on TR. I saved myself a rough 30' fall, at least.
Despite the sandbagging, I thought the route was good. In terms of move difficulty and protection, I'd describe it as the 'evil cousin' of the nearby routes 'The Offset' and 'Skink's Lip.'
Continue above in the 0.5-2" crack to the tree, then up the 5.5 climbing for 20+' above the tree, which is secure and not of much concern. Clip a pin, and step left to the anchors on P1 of The Red Dihedral.