Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Hurley-Medrick, 1960 (5.8 A3). FFA Reveley, 1978
Page Views: 1,522 total · 19/month
Shared By: Scott Bennett on Jan 20, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details
Access Issue: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details

Description

Zambezi features a beautiful thin crack, high on the left side of Mickey Mouse Wall.

P1. Begin by climbing the first pitch of Perversion, an excellent, thin, RF corner. At the large ledge, about 25m up, traverse far to the right to begin the second pitch of Perversion, but cut back left after just 5m. Follow a narrow ledge left past a few trees, and then hop up to a broad ledge below a clean, blank LF corner. 5.9, 35m. This pitch zigs and zags, so if you're placing a lot of pro, maybe break it into two.

P2. This is what you came for. Climb the aforementioned clean, blank, LF corner with no pro (5.9 R) for a few meters to a good small placement (RP or 00 C3). Make one more move to gain a jug and better gear. Above the corner, move up and left across a slab to a shallow roof (5.9 R/X). Stretch above the roof to clip a modern bolt (phew!), and then make a harder slab move up and right to the base of the obvious thin splitter. Climb this splitter, with a powerful and technical crux where it angles left. The crux involves reaching and passing a bomber hand-jam pod (and placing gear while your hand fills the pod!).

Once on easier terrain, follow the crack up to a broken ledgy area. You'll find a tree with rappel slings, and from here you can lower 35m back to the belay ledge (70m rope required!). Or scramble to the top of the wall (5.4). 5.12-, 35m (or ~50m if you continue to the top).

Location

Descent: rap the route (a 70m rope helps). Once back at the large belay ledge below the crux pitch, scramble to climber's left along an easy flake, and then down to a lower ledge with a big tree with rap slings. Rap from here 35m to the ground.

Protection

RPs, double set of cams to #1 Camalot.

Photos