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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall
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Asahi T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Astral Traveller T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Culp's Fault T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Matter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't Panic, It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Mighty Mouse S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Monks in the Gym T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Philanthropic T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Red Arete, The S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Red Dihedral T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Shiva's Dance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Stigmata T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Turnabout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.91728, -105.28551 |
| FA: | Hurley-Medrick, 1960 (5.8 A3). FFA Reveley, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 2,959 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Bennett on Jan 20, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Access Issue: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year
Details
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Description
Zambezi features a beautiful thin crack, high on the left side of Mickey Mouse Wall.
P1. Begin by climbing the first pitch of Perversion, an excellent, thin, RF corner. At the large ledge, about 25m up, traverse far to the right to begin the second pitch of Perversion, but cut back left after just 5m. Follow a narrow ledge left past a few trees, and then hop up to a broad ledge below a clean, blank LF corner. 5.9, 35m. This pitch zigs and zags, so if you're placing a lot of pro, maybe break it into two.
P2. This is what you came for. Climb the aforementioned clean, blank, LF corner with no pro (5.9 R) for a few meters to a good small placement (RP or 00 C3). Make one more move to gain a jug and better gear. Above the corner, move up and left across a slab to a shallow roof (5.9 R/X). Stretch above the roof to clip a modern bolt (phew!), and then make a harder slab move up and right to the base of the obvious thin splitter. Climb this splitter, with a powerful and technical crux where it angles left. The crux involves reaching and passing a bomber hand-jam pod (and placing gear while your hand fills the pod!).
Once on easier terrain, follow the crack up to a broken ledgy area. You'll find a tree with rappel slings, and from here you can lower 35m back to the belay ledge (70m rope required!). Or scramble to the top of the wall (5.4). 5.12-, 35m (or ~50m if you continue to the top).
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