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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall

Asahi T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don'’t Panic It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mighty Mouse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dihedral T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Shiva's Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Stigmata T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Rearick & George Hurley - 1966
Page Views: 2,846 total, 18/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 5, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details
Private Property issues Details

Description

This is a long (120') pitch of fantastic jamming with great rests and many thoughtful sequences. The crux is moving into and past a wide section, but zero thrutching is required.

P1: Do the first pitch of Lifestream (10d). Scramble up onto the highest tier of ledges and then move the belay all the way to the right end of this ledge.

P2: Beautiful climbing that protects well with small wires; a big cam is very useful for the crux. Belay a few meters below the Beagle's Ear at a horn with slings. 3 raps to the ground (some swinging is required to get over to the anchor atop Zen Effects.

A three star pitch!

Protection

SR + #4 Camalot.
R Sather
COLORADO
 
R Sather   COLORADO
 
What a classic piece of rock climbing! Just wish it wasn't such a far hike!

I thought this climb had two cruxes the wide pods and the thin fingers up top. I think next time I'll bring two 4s with me.

For those that are interested, the Lifestream anchors are easily reached by traversing an obvious, smaller ledge system to the climber's left and are probably only 10-15 feet away from the P2 corner system. As you exit the meat of the climbing on P2, it's one of the first weaknesses that a climber could traverse left, and the climbing is pretty mellow (big hand and foot ledge). However the anchors are well camouflaged and not easily seen if you're still on the direct line. If you're on the larger ledge system directly below the final 3rd pitch corner of this route, you have gone too far. It's 3 raps back to the ground from the Lifestream anchors, two bolted raps down to a large ledge, and then one final rap from a larger tree that is off to the climber's left.

I saw a previous poster commenting on getting their rope stuck, and the same happened to me. So beware! The crack size is just big enough, and if your gear isn't slung just right, it seems like the rope wants to slide in this groove. Luckily I had a Gri Gri and was able to quickly fix the line and get the rope unstuck.

Hope this info helps! Enjoy! Oct 22, 2017
It is interesting to note that back in the day 5.9 was the hardest free rating given, and there was a huge range of difficulty at that grade. I believe that the first 5.10 grade given in the Boulder area was Athlete's Feat on Castle Rock which is a pretty burly 5.10. This gives you an idea of how hard things had to get before people were willing to acknowledge that people were climbing harder than before. Several things to consider: our forefathers were burly, they were just starting to figure this climbing thing out (grades, gear, footwear, etc.), they tended to be very conservative in their estimation of the difficulties, and the ratings were meant to be a general guideline (5.9 was expert level ). I sometimes wonder if newer climbers appreciate how much climbing has evolved or how much balls the pioneers possessed. Oct 22, 2012
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
A 3.5 Camalot is indeed nice to have for the crux on the 2nd pitch. A wonderful route that protects well. Oct 24, 2005
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.11a
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.11a
That's a great question Ivan. My guess would be probably. Either that or grade inflation has come home to roost. There are probably lots of examples in Eldo's history where an "old school" rating didn't hold up for one reason or another (i.e. first pitch of T2 comes to mind).

Specifically, on this route, I remember that in the crux wide section it was too wide to fist jam and the feet too delicate to lie back comfortably with the hands on the edge of the crack. The only alternative was to grope crimpers and slopers on the face and stand on smaller features progressing slowly - pretty pumpy. However, just as the tank was emptying I saw some hand sized rock chocks buried deep in the crack that offered good downward holds. Possibly, there were similar features in days past that were larger and more ample. Oct 12, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
The 1980 Erickson Rocky Heights guide rates this 5.9(!), and says, "The final pitch, up a dihedral, is the crux (5.9+)." It's odd that Erickson would think P1 is much easier than the current 11a rating but that P2 is the same as the current 9+ rating. Could a chockstone have fallen out of the wide crux? Oct 9, 2005
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
  5.11a
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
  5.11a
In response to the question "maybe easier than 11a if you have big hands" the answer is it's not. I check in at 6'7" and have "big" hands and didn't find any advantages on this gem of a route. There seems to be an ubiquitous myth, in Eldorado in particular, that some how big folks have it easy.

Standard Eldo rack will suffice, although for comfort it would be recommended to bring two camalot 2s, one camalot 3 and one camalot 3.5.

Double 60 M ropes will put you comfortably on the ground from the Zen Effects/Lifestream belay. Oct 9, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Great climb, but maybe easier than 11a if you have big hands? There were two tricky mid 10 stemming and face cruxes and then the true crux--perfect hands to two OK fist jams and then wider pulling through an overhang with poor feet. I placed my big cam below the hand crack thinking a jug was coming and then went into melt down when the jug turned faux as the crack got wider.

I used lots of gear from mid-sized brass to maybe 3/8" nuts (could have used two sets), doubles from blue to red Aliens, and also doubles above that to #3 Camalot or perhaps singles if you back clean judiciously. And a #4 Camalot for the crux. We used a #3 Camalot at the belay at the bottom (optional), I placed another one at the first hand crack and back cleaned it, and I placed it again at the top as part of the belay and as a directional for the second. If you're real solid at 10, a single set from 1/8" to #3 Camalot might suffice.

I belayed at the end of the difficulties, but you can also traverse left and belay at the Zen Effects/Lifestream bolts. Our skinny twin ropes were pretty jammed in a thin crack above the crux, so that was not an option for us. Sep 6, 2005
Andy Moore  
 
There is also a third short pitch (9+) that is worth doing. This reaches the top of the wall, on the right side of the "Beagle's Ear." The best descent from here is to traverse over to the notch between the North and Central Towers for the standard rappel descent (four raps with a single rope, ending on top of the block at the base of Perversion). Sep 8, 2004