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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall

Asahi T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don'’t Panic It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mighty Mouse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dihedral T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Shiva's Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Stigmata T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Fred Knapp, Bill DeMaillie, Will Nichols, 1989
Page Views: 99 total, 0/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details
Private Property issues Details

Description

Boy, bolts can be nice. About 70 feet left of the main dihedral that is P1 of The Red Dihedral, the Three Mousketeers is the left of two bolted routes. Actually, the climbing per se on Three Mousketeers is better than that on Perilous Journey. It's more continuous, devious, and fingery. While Fred and Will are still very much on the scene and getting better and better each year, Bill DeMaillie died of natural causes sometime in the '90s. Bill was a proponent of developing the fine lines to be had in Boulder whose development was shut down cold by the Boulder City Council. The last words I remember from him were that if the Council forbade development, then the routes would get done anyway - under "the belly up veil of secrecy". If only it were so. What a man, we are a lot worse off without his maverick voice, defiant to the end.

Protection

QD only and a 50 m rope.

Photos

kevin murphy
Lafayette, Colorado
kevin murphy   Lafayette, Colorado
Good route, real safe. Much easier if there's chalk on it. Sep 21, 2008
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
The other thing that Bill did that has always impressed me was that he stood up for what he believed in and was not afraid to speak out in public. It was very clear, sometime in the '80s, that new route development in the Flatirons and in the rest of the Boulder City Parks jurisdiction was soon to close down. Bill obviously saw the impact on the tremendous, untapped potential for new, difficult routes. Certainly he was not alone. But when he stood up in front of the city council and told them what would be lost, told them why climbing mattered to Boulder, and told them what was likely to ensue if the park was closed to new route development, it was pretty damn cool. In fact, to this day, the voice I remember most from that time is Bill's. Dec 30, 2003
This isn't the right place for this comment, but since the submission discusses Bill DeMaillie I might set the record straight here also.

Bill didn't die of "natural causes". He committed suicide after years of battling Chronic Fatigue Syndrome. My recollection is that this was in 1992. Prior to his illness, Bill was an energetic climber who loved doing new routes, cycling, and trail running.

Will Niccolls Dec 29, 2003
The pin that comprises the first pro is high up. this is probably obvious to most (except me), but to clip it, hand traversing in from the left, along the rail to the left of of the pin is much easier, and far less spooky than trying to go straight up to the pin... a nasty deck fall loomed when going straight at it. Unless I missed something (quite possible.) Sep 20, 2003
Chris Dawson
Denver, CO
Chris Dawson   Denver, CO
Overall a fun line. There's an initial hard move past the first bolt followed by sustained climbing to the crux at the second-to-last bolt. I found this last section to be very reachy and I'm 6'2. Also, the last 20 ft. felt a bit contrived to me. Not sure what the FAs had in mind here exactly, but whatever I did, it was fun. Oct 23, 2002