Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,238 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details
Access Issue: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year Details

Description

To quote Rossiter, "Good routes in this grade are scarce." Find a large L-facing dihedral about 40m left of Shiva's Dance. Climb the great corner to a good ledge. P2: Follow the arcing dihedral until it becomes nearly horizontal (crux) and setup a hanging belay from a huge mess of slings. This climb is awesome, and commiting for the grade. The crux and exposure of this climb are really on the edge for a "5.7" climber. Awesome lead and a perfect crack.

Eds. Since the original ascent, the climb has been updated to ascend the dihedral 70 ft to a 2 bolt anchor and belay. P2 continues up the obvious, left-arching corner to the end and then straight up for a total distance of (100 feet).

Descent: Rap 1 from the top of Green Dihedral to the top of P1 Plane Geometry (80 feet). Rap 2 from Plane Geometry to the ground (90 feet). Note: The sketchy rap at the end of the roof has been removed to restore the original line. The rap anchors at the top of Green Dihedral were refurbished 01.30.2009.

Protection

Standard rack with extra large pro up to #4 Friend. Single, 50m rope to rap.

Photos