Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,490 total · 25/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details
Access Issue: Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details

Description

To quote Rossiter, "Good routes in this grade are scarce." Find a large L-facing dihedral about 40m left of Shiva's Dance. Climb the great corner to a good ledge. P2: Follow the arcing dihedral until it becomes nearly horizontal (crux) and setup a hanging belay from a huge mess of slings. This climb is awesome, and commiting for the grade. The crux and exposure of this climb are really on the edge for a "5.7" climber. Awesome lead and a perfect crack.

Eds. Since the original ascent, the climb has been updated to ascend the dihedral 70 ft to a 2 bolt anchor and belay. P2 continues up the obvious, left-arching corner to the end and then straight up for a total distance of (100 feet).

Descent: Rap 1 from the top of Green Dihedral to the top of P1 Plane Geometry (80 feet). Rap 2 from Plane Geometry to the ground (90 feet). Note: The sketchy rap at the end of the roof has been removed to restore the original line. The rap anchors at the top of Green Dihedral were refurbished 01.30.2009.

Protection

Standard rack with extra large pro up to #4 Friend. Single, 50m rope to rap.

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Photos

Halfway up the second pitch.
Halfway up the second pitch.
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untitled
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The route.
The route.
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First pitch on Black Friday. Cold, but better than shopping.
First pitch on Black Friday. Cold, but better…
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Cindy on the first pitch.
Cindy on the first pitch.
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Green Dihedral anchors above roof, refurbished 01.30.2009.
Green Dihedral anchors above roof, refurbished…
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John Cioci finishes up on what must be one of the best pitches of 5.7 in Boulder County- Green Dihedral, at Micky Mouse Wall. Don't forget your second rope, to rap down. Photo by Tony Bubb, 1999.
John Cioci finishes up on what must be one of t…
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William Prehm moving through the roof traverse on the second pitch of Green Dihedral on the Mickey Mouse Wall.
William Prehm moving through the roof traverse…
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10 Comments

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pete cogan
pete cogan  
Terrific route, lots of good pro with hexes, can use a single rope, and rap to the 12b anchors, then to the ground. Aug 21, 2001
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
Sustained is a good word for this gem. Above the unsightly nest of slings (the hanging belay) is another stretch of crack that continues with the same genuine quality caliber of the hand traverse to the hanging belay. Grab a breather at the hanging belay and go for the top instead of rapping. It's short and goes to another unsightly nest of slings, but adds a few more moves of great climbing. Oct 7, 2001
Ben Mottinger

  5.7
Ben Mottinger    
  5.7
Can be done as one pitch if you're 'solid at the grade' ;-). The second time around makes the route seem a little harder than 5.7--maybe 8-. Nov 2, 2001
Scott Thompson
Scott Thompson  
This is a fantastic line! I agree with Ben: it is [definitely] the spiciest and most committing [Eldo] 7 I've done, and feels like 8- if done as one pitch, which I fully recommend--more bang for your buck, and the climbing flows so well! That sling belay is horrendous at the end, but for me, it was a relief to stop there after the pumpy section before it! Oct 5, 2002
Andy Moore
Andy Moore  
Excellent climb. On the second pitch, in the left-facing corner before it arches left, there are some slightly loose chockstones and flakes. Be wary of where you place pro.

I agree with the recommendation to pass up the hanging belay at the end of the traverse on the second pitch and go straight up another short bit of exciting climbing to the next mess of slings (up and to the left a bit). A large cam (#4Fr, #3.5Cam) is nice to have handy to place in a slot to the right as you pull up above the hanging belay. Oct 28, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.7+
This is really a great line and can be done on a standard rack. Regardless of the grade you climb, this is a fun outing. As previously stated, you can add 40 feet to the climb by going up and left from the first belay to a second station in a single lead, making this one of the finest single pitches of its grade in the area. Jan 29, 2004
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
If this route were in Eldo proper, there would be constant lines. Classic climbing and nicely sustained at 5.7. Sep 10, 2007
Byron Murray
  5.7+
Byron Murray  
  5.7+
P1 - Begin with P1 of Red Dihedral, left-facing dihedral to a 2 bolt anchor. (70 feet) P2 continue up the obvious, left arching corner to the end and then straight up for a total distance of (100 feet). Highly recommend combining the two pitches for 170 feet of amazing climbing. Standard rack including a #3, 4 Camalot and a #2 and #3.5 for above the roof. Rap 1 from the top of Green Dihedral to the top of P1 Plane Geometry (80 feet) Rap 2 from Plane Geometry to the ground (90 feet). Note: The sketchy rap at the end of the roof has been removed to restore the original line. The rap anchors at the top of Green Dihedral were refurbished 01.30.2009. Feb 3, 2009
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
So good as one pitch! What a gem! Sep 15, 2009
Etha Williams
Somerville, MA
 
Etha Williams   Somerville, MA
 
Risked missing a flight to Boston to climb this. Worth it! Quite possibly the best single pitch of (stiff, sustained) 5.7 I've had the pleasure to climb. Nov 8, 2018