Type: |
Trad, 2 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(1) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 8,085 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Click here bouldercolorado.gov/osmp/cl… for more details.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
Description
To quote Rossiter, "Good routes in this grade are scarce." Find a large L-facing dihedral about 40m left of Shiva's Dance. Climb the great corner to a good ledge. P2: Follow the arcing dihedral until it becomes nearly horizontal (crux) and setup a hanging belay from a huge mess of slings. This climb is awesome, and commiting for the grade. The crux and exposure of this climb are really on the edge for a "5.7" climber. Awesome lead and a perfect crack.
Eds. Since the original ascent, the climb has been updated to ascend the dihedral 70 ft to a 2 bolt anchor and belay. P2 continues up the obvious, left-arching corner to the end and then straight up for a total distance of (100 feet).
Descent: Rap 1 from the top of Green Dihedral to the top of P1 Plane Geometry (80 feet). Rap 2 from Plane Geometry to the ground (90 feet). Note: The sketchy rap at the end of the roof has been removed to restore the original line. The rap anchors at the top of Green Dihedral were refurbished 01.30.2009.
Eds. Since the original ascent, the climb has been updated to ascend the dihedral 70 ft to a 2 bolt anchor and belay. P2 continues up the obvious, left-arching corner to the end and then straight up for a total distance of (100 feet).
Descent: Rap 1 from the top of Green Dihedral to the top of P1 Plane Geometry (80 feet). Rap 2 from Plane Geometry to the ground (90 feet). Note: The sketchy rap at the end of the roof has been removed to restore the original line. The rap anchors at the top of Green Dihedral were refurbished 01.30.2009.
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