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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall

Asahi T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don'’t Panic It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mighty Mouse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dihedral T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Shiva's Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Stigmata T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,104 total, 25/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details
Private Property issues Details

Description

To quote Rossiter, "Good routes in this grade are scarce." Find a large L-facing dihedral about 40m left of Shiva's Dance. Climb the great corner to a good ledge. P2: Follow the arcing dihedral until it becomes nearly horizontal (crux) and setup a hanging belay from a huge mess of slings. This climb is awesome, and commiting for the grade. The crux and exposure of this climb are really on the edge for a "5.7" climber. Awesome lead and a perfect crack.

Eds. Since the original ascent, the climb has been updated to ascend the dihedral 70 ft to a 2 bolt anchor and belay. P2 continues up the obvious, left-arching corner to the end and then straight up for a total distance of (100 feet).

Descent: Rap 1 from the top of Green Dihedral to the top of P1 Plane Geometry (80 feet). Rap 2 from Plane Geometry to the ground (90 feet). Note: The sketchy rap at the end of the roof has been removed to restore the original line. The rap anchors at the top of Green Dihedral were refurbished 01.30.2009.

Protection

Standard rack with extra large pro up to #4 Friend. Single, 50m rope to rap.
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
So good as one pitch! What a gem! Sep 15, 2009
Byron Murray
  5.7+
Byron Murray  
  5.7+
P1 - Begin with P1 of Red Dihedral, left-facing dihedral to a 2 bolt anchor. (70 feet) P2 continue up the obvious, left arching corner to the end and then straight up for a total distance of (100 feet). Highly recommend combining the two pitches for 170 feet of amazing climbing. Standard rack including a #3, 4 Camalot and a #2 and #3.5 for above the roof. Rap 1 from the top of Green Dihedral to the top of P1 Plane Geometry (80 feet) Rap 2 from Plane Geometry to the ground (90 feet). Note: The sketchy rap at the end of the roof has been removed to restore the original line. The rap anchors at the top of Green Dihedral were refurbished 01.30.2009. Feb 3, 2009
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
If this route were in Eldo proper, there would be constant lines. Classic climbing and nicely sustained at 5.7. Sep 10, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.7+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.7+
This is really a great line and can be done on a standard rack. Regardless of the grade you climb, this is a fun outing. As previously stated, you can add 40 feet to the climb by going up and left from the first belay to a second station in a single lead, making this one of the finest single pitches of its grade in the area. Jan 29, 2004
Excellent climb. On the second pitch, in the left-facing corner before it arches left, there are some slightly loose chockstones and flakes. Be wary of where you place pro.

I agree with the recommendation to pass up the hanging belay at the end of the traverse on the second pitch and go straight up another short bit of exciting climbing to the next mess of slings (up and to the left a bit). A large cam (#4Fr, #3.5Cam) is nice to have handy to place in a slot to the right as you pull up above the hanging belay. Oct 28, 2003
This is a fantastic line! I agree with Ben: it is [definitely] the spiciest and most committing [Eldo] 7 I've done, and feels like 8- if done as one pitch, which I fully recommend--more bang for your buck, and the climbing flows so well! That sling belay is horrendous at the end, but for me, it was a relief to stop there after the pumpy section before it! Oct 5, 2002
Ben Mottinger    
 
Can be done as one pitch if you're 'solid at the grade' ;-). The second time around makes the route seem a little harder than 5.7--maybe 8-. Nov 2, 2001
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
Sustained is a good word for this gem. Above the unsightly nest of slings (the hanging belay) is another stretch of crack that continues with the same genuine quality caliber of the hand traverse to the hanging belay. Grab a breather at the hanging belay and go for the top instead of rapping. It's short and goes to another unsightly nest of slings, but adds a few more moves of great climbing. Oct 7, 2001
Terrific route, lots of good pro with hexes, can use a single rope, and rap to the 12b anchors, then to the ground. Aug 21, 2001