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Routes in Mickey Mouse Wall

Asahi T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beagle's Ear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boxcar Willie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Captain Beyond T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Culp's Fault T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don'’t Panic It's Organic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eagle's Bier T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fake Right, Go Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fluffy Bunny T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Green Dihedral T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hamburger Helper T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Krystal Klyr T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Lifestream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mausoleum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mighty Mouse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oblique Streak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Offset, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Parallel Journey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Perilous Journey TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Perversion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dihedral T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R
Shiva's Dance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Simian's Way T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skink's Lip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Stigmata T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Three Mousketeers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Vulcans Don't Lie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zambezi T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Zen Effects S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,391 total · 10/month
Shared By: Clint Locks on Aug 15, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Private Property issues Details
Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 - each year - extended in 2016 - now open Details

Description

"Vulcans Don't Lie" is truly more of a variation of Mickey Mouse Wall's classic 5.9 "Perversion" than a route in itself but, since it is a named climb in Rossiter's guide, I thought I'd add it to the site. Though Rossiter gave it a 10b, I found it to be short enough and positive enough to place it at .10a. I hope that's not obnoxious. Most of the info one would need for "Vulcans" can be found on the "Perversion" or "Captain Beyond" pages. Have fun!

Location

"Vulcans" is the roof located directly above pitch 3 of "Perversion", and can be gracefully substituted for the final 5.6 section of that pitch. Rap from the saddle from a veritable rat's nest of webbing. 2 more raps will get you to your packs.

Protection

The protection is reasonably good on this pitch, though there is a large very loose block in the middle of the roof in which pro (esp. a cam) would more than likely rip. Careful!

Photos

Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.10a
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.10a
Excellent way to finish Perversion. Oct 30, 2016
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
 
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
 
Did a link-up of P1-3 of Captain Beyond with a finish on Perversion and Vulcans Don't Lie. My partner got the rope stuck behind the flake a couple body lengths above the climber in this photo (the detached green one, not the upper brown one). It stuck solidly while he was at the crux of VDL. I had him anchor into three pieces, and I rope-soloed the pitch on clove hitches to get up to the flake and build a belay there. Placing a nut at the top of that flake would probably keep that from happening.

Oct 11, 2016

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